The ABCs of Starting Over- OR to KY Roadtrip + WDW 50th Ann. Trip 9/28-10/4; Day 6 and REPORT COMPLETE!

[franandaj]

we turned north until we reached Kayenta on Hwy 163.

I remember Kayenta!

We were shown to a table and given some menus,

So was this place in Kayenta?

I went with the extremely traditional dish of a Navajo Taco- fry bread topped with pinto beans, lettuce, tomato, cheese, and onion.

I was hoping that's what you chose when I saw it on the menu. It may not be traditionally something that people ate, but I think it's a big staple now.

After several wrong turns and a bit of hunting and pecking we pulled into a private yard just north of the Arizona-Utah border.

You might be picturing a nice soft bed in a private room with a TV and Netflix.


No.


This was our space for the evening:

Yikes! We're you expecting an actual room?

The destination was another overlook similar to Horseshoe Bend, this one aptly named, Goosenecks State Park.

I didn't know about this place! It looks super cool!

Enroute, we passed a landmark called Mexican Hat. Easy to see how it got its name:

I remember passing through here but didn't get why it was called that. Totally missed the hat.

Apparently, the dogs needed to “go” too and left us a nice little parting gift. I guess in dogspeak we should have been flattered as this cute little guy had been doing the hard work of guarding us all night long.

Ugh. I'm assuming that luggage is history. I had a similar experience with cats only on the inside and despite my attempts to rid us of the aroma, it never left. We tossed the suitcase.

 

[Steppesister]

Day 9- Monument Valley to Gallup, NM, Pt. 1

Y is for: Yesterday's Treasures and Yawning Canyons​

We woke to a beautiful sunny sky and a scenic background so pretty it was hard to pack up our car and newly decorated luggage. Best of all, my headache was gone and a whole new day of adventuring lay before us. My Stumptown Coffee drinks were long since consumed and there were no prospects of caffeine for miles and miles, so I gave any impending withdrawal headaches a pre-emptive strike with Extra Strength Tylenol for breakfast. Our goal was to reach Gallup by early evening with no truly planned stops along the way. We managed to find enough mischief regardless.

​

Determined to stay off the interstate as long as possible and take the lesser-traveled routes, we set out on 163 South and turned off on 160 East towards 191 South. We’d be on Navajo Nation Land for the majority of the day.

​

At one point we made a wrong turn and ended up on a very twisty mountain pass road. Before it was clear this was the wrong road, we came across a very poignant roadside memorial to the Navajo Code Talkers. If you are unfamiliar with this part of WWII history here is a brief bit of information:

https://unwritten-record.blogs.archives.gov/2020/12/01/navajo-code-talkers/

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Navajo are extremely patriotic, despite what you might think and are very proud of their work in WWII and the role their Code Talkers played. I found this particular display very moving.

In case you are wondering what a modern day Navajo Shepherd might look like:

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It was fun photographing this little guy during one of our many (many!) pee stops:

(I spent WAY too long down a rabbit hole looking this up. It's a Robber Fly and issues a painful bite. There, a useless fact you don't read TR's for...)

​

With no snacks left, we stopped off at Round Rock in the “Trading Post”; it was time to stock up on junk food. Also, I had recalled from my travels many years ago that you can often find authentic Indian baskets and rugs for sale. Inquiring minds need to know! I found someone busy stocking the shelves and asked if maybe they might have some things tucked away that might be tempting but was directed instead to another trading post a few miles up the road- in Lukachukai at the Totsoh Trading Post. We bought our diabetes-in-a-bag and set out for the Totsoh.

​

To the casual observer it was your typical rundown convenience store with bags of chips, SPAM, bologna, white bread, and ramen. (It’s no wonder the Reservation is considered a food desert and diabetes and heart disease are huge problems. I did my Capstone Project on Health Disparities among Native Americans focusing on drug abuse and prevention and healthcare access.) Again, I found an employee and told her I had been sent here to ask about any rugs for other handcrafts for sale.

<dramatic voice> “Ohhhh, you want to see… the room.”

<becoming giddy, but keeping my bargaining poker game face on> “Well, I’m interested in seeing handwoven rugs if you have any.”

We were led to the upstairs and into a small, locked room, maybe 10X8. It was full of racks of Indian rugs and other handcrafts, some very old and all incredibly gorgeous. It nearly took my breath away. I told her my price range and she let us just touch and browse and ask questions. Most of the time the answer was, my father is the seller, and he sets the prices. Unfortunately, most were not priced, and she kept having to tell us she’d have to ask him about this one or that one. The ones with prices were too expensive, sadly. I took her number and asked her to get the prices for 3 or 4 that interested me most. The next day we texted a bit when she got some prices, but none were affordable. $1,300 was just too much even if they were woven in 1920. Maybe someday I’ll visit Totsoh again but it’s WAY off the beaten path and takes a hella effort to get to.

I did come away with some fabulous photos of these true works of art which I’ll always treasure.

​

And the question remains: Will Zach and Steppe find rugs before we leave this amazing portion of country?

Our next stop was Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon de SHAY), a more well-known landmark perhaps. As with all Navajo sites, in order to see it up close or, in this case, go down into the canyon, you must secure a guide. With our limited time, we passed and instead stopped at the viewpoint and saw what we could from the top. Pulling into the parking lot a Navajo woman had some jewelry displayed on her tailgate and I picked out a lovely Nevada turquoise necklace that looks similar to this. (Sorry, mine is back in Kentucky.) One can never have “too much” turquoise!!

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Happy with my purchase, Zach and I walked the very short trails to the overlooks and viewed the 3 or 4 sites of ruins. There is still an operational homestead in the bottom of the Canyon and there were sheep grazing just as I’d remembered it when my parents took me to visit 4 decades ago. Sometimes the timelessness of places are what I most fondly appreciate.

The canyon itself is quite impressive aside from the ruins. I imagine it's a cool oasis from the summertime blistering heat and a nice shelter from the swirling snows of winter.

In no particular order, Canyon de Chelly:

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The textures were just too yummy to pass up photographing!

​

 

[pkondz]

Y is for: Yesterday's Treasures and Yawning Canyons

I hear that yawning canyons are contagious.

We woke to a beautiful sunny sky and a scenic background so pretty it was hard to pack up our car

You know it's pretty when...

Best of all, my headache was gone

Great!

I gave any impending withdrawal headaches a pre-emptive strike with Extra Strength Tylenol for breakfast.

Breakfast of (sore) champions.

Can't get over that view.
Was the fence for keeping critters in or keeping them out? Or just a boundary demarcation.

That formation is wild! Never seen anything like that.

I wondered how many people and/or animals have seeked refuge in that cave?

we came across a very poignant roadside memorial to the Navajo Code Talkers.

Oh! How cool is that?

If you are unfamiliar with this part of WWII history here is a brief bit of information:

Not unfamiliar at all. Known about them most of my life. They even made a movie out it (Windtalkers) starring Nicholas Cage.

Navajo are extremely patriotic, despite what you might think

Actually... I might think they're extremely patriotic.

It was fun photographing this little guy

Huh. And here I thought he was a regular sized guy. So what was he? 6" or so?

during one of our many (many!) pee stops

It's a Robber Fly and issues a painful bite. There, a useless fact you don't read TR's for...)

Au contraire. I read TRs for the useless facts.

it was time to stock up on junk food.

It's not a road trip without junk food.

I found someone busy stocking the shelves and asked if maybe they might have some things tucked away that might be tempting but was directed instead to another trading post a few miles up the road

Honest of them.

We bought our diabetes-in-a-bag

<dramatic voice> “Ohhhh, you want to see… the room.”

dun dun dun!!!!

keeping my bargaining poker game face on

Liesa's bargaining poker face: ->

We were led to the upstairs and into a small, locked room, maybe 10X8. It was full of racks of Indian rugs and other handcrafts, some very old and all incredibly gorgeous.

The mother-lode!

Unfortunately, most were not priced, and she kept having to tell us she’d have to ask him about this one or that one.

I'm not all surprised by that.
I guess...... if you have to ask, maybe you can't afford it?

$1,300 was just too much even if they were woven in 1920.

Yikes.
I have no idea if that's a good price or not, but it's out of my price range for a rug.

I did come away with some fabulous photos of these true works of art which I’ll always treasure.

Not my style. I can appreciate them, but I doubt I'd want one in my house.

And the question remains: Will Zach and Steppe find rugs before we leave this amazing portion of country?

I didn't know this was a question! What other questions are there that I'm not aware of??

Our next stop was Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon de SHAY), a more well-known landmark perhaps.

Not to this cowboy.

a Navajo woman had some jewelry displayed on her tailgate and I picked out a lovely Nevada turquoise necklace

Huh!
Not something I'm sure I'd do... buy jewelry off a tailgate.

One can never have “too much” turquoise!!

Oh? What if one is being smothered in them?

There is still an operational homestead in the bottom of the Canyon and there were sheep grazing just as I’d remembered it when my parents took me to visit 4 decades ago.

Okay, that's cool. Must've been like stepping into a time machine.

That's really cool.
Built along the canyon wall to take advantage of shade, I presume. Looks like it was very elaborate.

I'm really surprised at how green it is at the bottom.

The textures were just too yummy to pass up photographing!

I'm not surprised!

 

[Wood Nymph]

The Code talkers were a key part of WW2 and they deserve a monument that isn't hidden away like this one.

I like the picture of the Navajo shepherd.

The Navajo blankets are stunning!

It is a beautiful area. But it is so barren. You wonder how the Navajo manage to make a living on it.

 

[franandaj]

My Stumptown Coffee drinks were long since consumed and there were no prospects of caffeine for miles and miles,

Ugh, I would be unable to function!

We’d be on Navajo Nation Land for the majority of the day.

And thus no cell service.....or internet access.....

Before it was clear this was the wrong road, we came across a very poignant roadside memorial to the Navajo Code Talkers. If you are unfamiliar with this part of WWII history here is a brief bit of information:

Yes! I'm aware of the Navajo Code Talkers! They had a serious part in winning the war! Never could break their code.

It's a Robber Fly and issues a painful bite.

I hope that thing is only large because you focused in on it. But then I think I remember seeing some and they are pretty big.

The next day we texted a bit when she got some prices, but none were affordable. $1,300 was just too much even if they were woven in 1920.

That's the kind of rug you put on a wall, not on the floor!

Will Zach and Steppe find rugs before we leave this amazing portion of country?

I'd be more interested in the jewelry.

One can never have “too much” turquoise!!

I could make a case for "too much" turquoise.....

Canyon de Chelly:

Beautiful!

 

[Steppesister]

I learn so much on your TRs!

I'm full of useless information. Some might even be entertaining.

Ah! so not a BnB but an Airbnb... and yes, I get that.

Correct!

So.... unless you have specialized equipment... (a polar aligned rotator on a tripod) you won't get those stunning milky way shots you see from time to time. You can't expose a sky shot for more than 30 seconds without noticeable star trails. Even 30 seconds is really pushing it.

And the likelihood of my investing in thousands of $ in that is very, very low. Although, I can say, I've seen some star trails photos that are pretty darn cool.

 

[Steppesister]

Just got all caught up with this.
Your pictures are absolutely stunning! And that doesn't give them enough credit. What an amazingly beautiful place! Thanks so much for sharing.

Thank you so much! I'm so glad you're enjoying them! Loads more to come!

 

[Steppesister]

Wow!!! The scenery and your photos of them are breath taking. The huge formations are very humbling. I love all the shades of colors.

This was a trip of a lifetime.

PS. GB started a trip report.

It truly is beautiful there. So much beauty all around you in those wide open spaces.

It really was and there is still lots to come.

And... THANKS! I hope I can get to other TRs this weekend!

 

[Steppesister]

I remember Kayenta!

Fun fact: My ex's and mine's first dog, before we were married, was named Kayenta. It didn't last long as our apartment after we were married didn't take pets. I think we gave her away.

So was this place in Kayenta?

Yes indeed.

I was hoping that's what you chose when I saw it on the menu. It may not be traditionally something that people ate, but I think it's a big staple now.

It is! They are pretty common and never disappoint.

Yikes! We're you expecting an actual room?

OH no, definitely not. It was advertised as a camping spot, but I totally forgot to write about the toilet and shower. LOL!

The toilet was a pit toilet, although a pretty deluxe one in terms of pit toilets. The shower was in a nice room, but to turn it on, I had to go to a spigot in the yard, turn that on and then go into the shower room, activate the instant hot water, and then do the reverse process at the end. Oy....

I didn't know about this place! It looks super cool!

Very unique and way more extensive than the Horseshoe Bend overlook. I think more wild since there's no dam upstream.

I remember passing through here but didn't get why it was called that. Totally missed the hat.

OH dang it! It's a really awesome landmark!

Ugh. I'm assuming that luggage is history. I had a similar experience with cats only on the inside and despite my attempts to rid us of the aroma, it never left. We tossed the suitcase.

Yeah... tossed it.

 

[Steppesister]

I hear that yawning canyons are contagious.

Har, har, har.

Breakfast of (sore) champions.

Sleeping in the car is not for the....old and decrepit.

Can't get over that view.
Was the fence for keeping critters in or keeping them out? Or just a boundary demarcation.

You know... I'm not even sure. Maybe would keep stray horses, cattle and sheep out? But probably more for demarcation.

That formation is wild! Never seen anything like that.

It's such a surreal landscape.

I wondered how many people and/or animals have seeked refuge in that cave?

I wondered the exact same thing!

Oh! How cool is that?

Super cool. This was just a makeshift thank you/appreciation. Wondered if it might have been Code Talkers Day or something.

Not unfamiliar at all. Known about them most of my life. They even made a movie out it (Windtalkers) starring Nicholas Cage.

Huh! I'll have to see if I can find that one. Thanks for the tip.

Huh. And here I thought he was a regular sized guy. So what was he? 6" or so?

Oh no, maybe like 2"-2 1/2" or so?

Au contraire. I read TRs for the useless facts.

I have them aplenty.

It's not a road trip without junk food.

Yes!!

Liesa's bargaining poker face: ->

Shh, I mean... maybe I'm bluffing.

I'm not all surprised by that.
I guess...... if you have to ask, maybe you can't afford it?

Yeah, probably that. Although, I do have to wonder... how many folks waltz in and are willing to spend even half that. Or know about them. Wonder how long it'll take them to sell.

Yikes.
I have no idea if that's a good price or not, but it's out of my price range for a rug.

Was mine too. They are quite small, most being about 2x4' or so.

Not my style. I can appreciate them, but I doubt I'd want one in my house.

I love them as a centerpiece.

I didn't know this was a question! What other questions are there that I'm not aware of??

How many of our motel rooms had bedbugs? Do I wreck my car again? This is beginning to sound like an Old-Style DIS Contest.

Huh!
Not something I'm sure I'd do... buy jewelry off a tailgate.

I was so happy to be supporting their economy.

Oh? What if one is being smothered in them?

I'd be ok with that.

Okay, that's cool. Must've been like stepping into a time machine.

A very nostalgic moment for sure.

That's really cool.
Built along the canyon wall to take advantage of shade, I presume. Looks like it was very elaborate.

I think for a lot of mostly weather related reasons: Wind, rain, snow....

I'm really surprised at how green it is at the bottom.

Lots of water when it does rain. And it can rain a fair bit and create some pretty impressive gully washers/flashfloods.

 

[Steppesister]

The Code talkers were a key part of WW2 and they deserve a monument that isn't hidden away like this one.

Indeed! I don't think this one was a permanent memorial per se, but a local thank you/appreciation wall of sorts put up by a civil group or such. I wondered if we'd visited close to Code Talkers DAy or something.

I like the picture of the Navajo shepherd.

Keeping it real.

The Navajo blankets are stunning!

We learned a lot more about Navajo rugs on our next stop...

It is a beautiful area. But it is so barren. You wonder how the Navajo manage to make a living on it.

It is a wild, beautiful sort of barren and I too wonder. I do know a lot of their revenue comes from Uranium mining leases, wool, jewelry and US Gov't subsidies. But it is also fraught with poverty sadly.

 

[Steppesister]

Ugh, I would be unable to function!

It was a close, Alison!

And thus no cell service.....or internet access.....

How did you ever guess?! We went days without any at all in a lot of places.

Yes! I'm aware of the Navajo Code Talkers! They had a serious part in winning the war! Never could break their code.

Yes, they certainly did! Very heroic and cunning!

I hope that thing is only large because you focused in on it. But then I think I remember seeing some and they are pretty big.

I'd guess this one was 2"-2 1/2" long. I had no desire to feel these "painful bites" I read about!

That's the kind of rug you put on a wall, not on the floor!

Correct. We have several now hanging in our home in Bowling Green which I'll show you in my next update.

I'd be more interested in the jewelry.

I'm a sucker for Indian silver.

I could make a case for "too much" turquoise.....

I have heard stories of large squash blossoms and such. If I'd known Fran was selling, I'd have bought it in a hot minute even if I do have 2 already at home. My next purchase will probably be a bracelet as I don't have one at all.... yet.

 

[pkondz]

I'm full of useless information. Some might even be entertaining.

They are!

And the likelihood of my investing in thousands of $ in that is very, very low.

Oh, no. I keep seeing ads for this one:
Amazon.com : Move Shoot Move Rotator - Basic Kit A - Portable Star Tracker & Timelapse Rotator- 2-in-1 Version : Electronics

Sleeping in the car is not for the....old and decrepit.

Nope. Especially a small car. Ahem.

It's such a surreal landscape.

Huh! I'll have to see if I can find that one. Thanks for the tip.

I don't remember if it was a good movie however. I seem to recall that I enjoyed it, but... long time ago.

Oh no, maybe like 2"-2 1/2" or so?

Huh. Who knew Navajo shepherds were that small???

Shh, I mean... maybe I'm bluffing.

Maybe!

Yeah, probably that. Although, I do have to wonder... how many folks waltz in and are willing to spend even half that. Or know about them. Wonder how long it'll take them to sell.

Then again... if they only sell a few... that's good money.

Was mine too. They are quite small, most being about 2x4' or so.

Oh! Here I thought they'd be more like 6'x6'!

How many of our motel rooms had bedbugs? Do I wreck my car again? This is beginning to sound like an Old-Style DIS Contest.

Yay!!

I'd be ok with that.

I think for a lot of mostly weather related reasons: Wind, rain, snow....

Snow!?!?!?!??!

Lots of water when it does rain. And it can rain a fair bit and create some pretty impressive gully washers/flashfloods.

Huh! Now I know.

 

[Steppesister]

Oh, no. I keep seeing ads for this one:
Amazon.com : Move Shoot Move Rotator - Basic Kit A - Portable Star Tracker & Timelapse Rotator- 2-in-1 Version : Electronics

Huh!! I'll take a peek.

Nope. Especially a small car. Ahem.

Yeah... I feel decrepit.

I don't remember if it was a good movie however. I seem to recall that I enjoyed it, but... long time ago.

I can't even remember what I was talking about 5 minutes ago, so there's that.

Huh. Who knew Navajo shepherds were that small???

LOL!! I was referring to the little fly. It's all a matter of perspective though, eh?

Then again... if they only sell a few... that's good money.

For sure!

Oh! Here I thought they'd be more like 6'x6'!

Definitely not. Most of "saddle blanket" sized.

Snow!?!?!?!??!

Yes! Northern Arizona gets quite a bit of snow!

 

[pkondz]

Yeah... I feel decrepit.

Better than dead.


Barely... but better.

I can't even remember what I was talking about 5 minutes ago, so there's that.

What's this comment about?

Definitely not. Most of "saddle blanket" sized.

Well there ya go. I don't have a horse, so...

Yes! Northern Arizona gets quite a bit of snow!

I had no idea!!

 

[KathyM2]

OMG I'm so embarrassed to admit I just found this report...I sort of knew where you were going I think because of FB and IG or something? But how did I miss this? Have to go back and catch up but glad I found you again!

 

[Steppesister]

Better than dead.


Barely... but better.

I knew you could relate! LOL!

Well there ya go. I don't have a horse, so...

Well, saddle up, Cowboy! Hmmm, you do have a Harley, though. Might be extra cool!

 

[Steppesister]

OMG I'm so embarrassed to admit I just found this report...I sort of knew where you were going I think because of FB and IG or something? But how did I miss this? Have to go back and catch up but glad I found you again!

OH so glad you made it!!! It's a long slog but lots of country we're covering. Happy to have you along again, Kathy!!

 

[pkondz]

I knew you could relate! LOL!

Well, saddle up, Cowboy! Hmmm, you do have a Harley, though. Might be extra cool!

I’ll think about it.

 

[Steppesister]

Z is for: Zig Zags

Day 9- Monument Valley to Gallup, NM, Pt. 2​

Our next stop was wholly unintended but one I was so, SO happy to have accidentally come across. When I was young(er, now I'm just old), perhaps 13 or 14, my parents took us on a similar road trip over many of the same highways and places I’ve already written about. One stop we made was at Hubbell’s Trading Post, situated deep on "the Res" near the town of Ganado.

​

Not only is it a National Historic Site, but it’s also still very operational with skads and skads of Indian crafts and antiques for sale. If browsing for turquoise, blankets, baskets, or antique firearms is your thing, this is your place!

​

We looked at the dozens of blankets for quite some time and learned that not all rugs are equal. By that, I mean some are made with all natural dyes and hand-carded wool, while others are made with artificial dyes rending brighter, more garish colors. While all are hand-woven, not all had the extra love given with hand carding and dying.

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In the end I settled on this one as I wanted one that captured the earth tones and hues of the natural landscape I'd been savoring the last few days. The Navajo seller explained that the symbolism the weaver captures in this particular design are the heat waves coming off of the desert and the reflective mirages against the darker hills.

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Zach wanted the bold contrasts of red and black and, after careful deliberation, chose this one.

​

They are now added to the one my parents have hanging over the upstairs balustrade which is equally lovely.

​

We were so proud of our purchases which the staff carefully rolled and wrapped for us in paper tucking the receipts inside along with an informational pamphlet on how to care for our new treasures. All told, it was around $800 that we plunked down- by far the most expensive souvenir for the entire trip.

With about an hour left until we would get to Gallup, NM, we hit the road for our last leg. Had it not been so late in the day, I’d have also stopped at Window Rock to take a few photos, but we’d made arrangements to meet up with some long-lost friends with whom I’d recently re-connected with. They were very helpful in giving me some information and insights for my Capstone Project for my BSN degree. They’ve worked among this people group for a long time pointed me to some very helpful resources in my research. Anyway, we pulled into the historic El Charro Hotel where many, MANY old-timey movie stars have stayed while on set at nearby locations. It is such an iconic old place rich with history and tons of memorabilia. We were given the "James Cagney Room" for our stay and while dated in a Route 66 sort of way, it was FAR nicer than The Copper State Motel in Ashford or the back of the car. The El Charro has managed to keep the nostalgia alive while modernizing for comfort. All checked in, we headed to our friends place with whom we’d be eating dinner with.

We piled in their car with their kids and drove to the kids' school for sports practice and then took off for Jerry’s, one of the most popular Gallup, NM greasy spoons specializing in New Mexico-style Mexican food. And when in NM, the right thing to do is order tamales “Christmas-style”. That means, half red sauce, half green sauce. Both are very spicy and spectacularly delicious. I ate the whole order of pork tamales while Zach enjoyed some Albondigas soup which he loved.

​

After dinner, we picked up their kids, then got our car from their place, first taking a few photos, and then headed for our hotel for the night. Needless to say, it was vastly more comfortable, even if a bit dated, than what we’d endured the several nights before.

Up next, A Marriage Proposal and “Lost and Found”….