Canon 550D (Rebel T2i, Kiss X4)

I'm about 6 months ahead of where you're at.

I picked up the T2i in April of this year with the 18 - 55 mm f/3.5 - 5.6kit lens and the 55 - 250 f/4.0 - 5.6 IS kit lens .

I predominantly shoot people, landscapes and food - daytime and night time.

Since April, I've gone to WDW twice.
What I've found is that when I'm at the park, I'm mostly shooting using the 18 - 55 mm lens. Sure I've pulled out the 55 - 250 mm a number of times; but that was because I consciously reminded myself that I was carrying it around in the bag and I should try to use it as well. The exception is AK; where the 55 - 250 pays for itself but then the shooting is done in daytime.

For my second trip, I added the 50 mm f/1.8 to the bag. What I wish is that I had purchased a lens capable of low light photography, from the get-go. I know that NOW; but I didn't know it then.

I've recently added the 18 - 55 mm f/2.8 to my lens collection. The 6 month old 18 - 55 mm kit lens will stay in storage for back-up.

I know that I will upgrade my 55 - 250 mm kit lens at some stage. But for the type of photography I'm currently doing, I won't need to update for a while as I find that this kit lens really meets my beginner needs for the time being.

If I had to do it all over again, I would try and see what deal a camera shop would give me for the T2i body and the 18 - 55 mm f/2.8 lens.

I note that you live in SoCal with the majority of your time in DLR; so most of your shooting will be at DLR. If you're planning on shooting at night without a flash, then a lens with a faster shutter speed will be mandatory.

If you've decided to stick with the 18 - 55 mm kit lens and are only debating the zoom, then whether you buy the telezoom and which model you get will depend on the type of shooting you do.
If you are shooting wildlife and sports, its a completely different ball game. You'd be better off with a faster shutter speed for this type of photography.
 
If you're planning on shooting at night without a flash, then a lens with a faster shutter speed will be mandatory.

No offense for correcting you here as I just want to make sure the OP does not get confused by this. Lenses do not have shutters. The shutter is in the camera. The lens does have the aperture. That is the f/ number you see. The smaller that number is, the larger the opening is. This allows more light in which then allows a faster shutter speed to capture the same exposure. The other factor is the ISO. The higher it is, the faster the shutter can be or the smaller the aperture can be. The trade off is that the wider the aperture gets, the smaller the depth of field gets (i.e. area in focus).
 
Thanks for sharing your learning process as well as some great pictures. I have to say you picked a lens thats fun but can be tricky to use for the same reasons that make it fun - the F1.8 aperture.

On some of your focussing issues I would echo what Uncle Greg said. In some cases, I don't think it was the focus point, but maybe a bit of camera shake blurring your image.

One other thing you might want to think about is depth of field - not about the bokeh, but the actual depth of field - how deep your plane of focus is. This was something I stumbled over many times (and still do) when shooting wide open. with my 50mm F1.8 and now my 30mm F1.4. I tend to use center point for focus, and I am a big fan of focus and recompose. This technique works pretty good when you are F5.6 and up, but can be a problem at F1.8. I like to think of the in focus area as a big sheet of glass that is in front of my camera, which gets thicker as the apperture gets bigger - so very thin at f1.8 but much thicker at f8. Only the area in the sheet of glass is in focus. As I move my lens around, my focus area moves as well.

A good example of how this works is your Temple of Heaven shot. It looks to me that you focussed on the blue and gold plaque on the top roof which appears sharp (inside the big sheet of glass) while the walls on the bottom tier are less sharp (outside the big sheet of glass).

If you haven't already, you should check out DOF Master which calculates the thickness of your sheet of glass at different aperture sizes and distances from your subject. This is a resource that really helped me understand how to use my lenses wide open and what I could expect to happen. Also, if you are using the DPP software that is bundled with the Canon cameras, when you look at the image you can have it show what focus point was used for the image.

Thanks again for sharing your experience and some great pictures!
 
Thanks cpbjgc for the DOF reminder! :cool1:

You inspired me to download an app to my smart phone. (Yo GDAD, the Droid X has an app called Depth of field Calc.. by Allen Zhong that is working for me plus it's free :thumbsup2).

This is the sort of thing "out in the field" that drives me crazy since my bifocal wearing eyes just ain't what they used to be...

Thanks Peeps
:grouphug:
Marlton Mom
 
No offense for correcting you here as I just want to make sure the OP does not get confused by this. Lenses do not have shutters. The shutter is in the camera. The lens does have the aperture. That is the f/ number you see. The smaller that number is, the larger the opening is. This allows more light in which then allows a faster shutter speed to capture the same exposure. The other factor is the ISO. The higher it is, the faster the shutter can be or the smaller the aperture can be. The trade off is that the wider the aperture gets, the smaller the depth of field gets (i.e. area in focus).

None taken. Thank you. I'm still learning my ABC's in photography....:thumbsup2.
 
THANKS! I'll definitely be spending some time over the weekend looking at the DOF link.
 
Don't let the little extras sway you too much. That card is worth about $5 and the "gadget bag" will be taking space in your closet within a month.

I think the point we are trying to make is that while the price for that lens is not bad, it is not that great of a lens. Being variable aperture, it is not going to be a low light performer even with the IS. If that is important to you, this lens is not going to make you all that happy. Why not either save and go with the other cheaper tele lens or go ahead and upgrade to a fast tele lens. That is the best I can describe it. I would go with a different brand anyway ;)

true, a deal with the T2i (550D) with the 55-250IS/18-55IS lens is preferable and then decide if a f2.8 telephoto zoom or something with longer focal range is better when you have more experience and can evaluate your priorities. I want an f2.8 zoom, 400mm and with "IS" but that's going to cost an arm, leg and more!
 
Oh my gosh. Your posts were terrific. I am getting ready to purchase my first DSLR (Canon T1i) and am very excited to learn. We are headed to Disney next summer so I have a few months. I am waiting to see if the camera will go on sale for black friday, but these last few days have been torture. I really want to get my hands on the camera and start shooting. You guys are really inspiring!
 
Great posts about your experience - thanks for sharing! Sounds like you learned a lot and are enjoying it every step of the way.

I wanted to mention that as I was looking at the photos with the focus issues I also started to feel that some of them were more about camera shake and not focus itself. I see that a couple of others already mentioned it but just to reiterate that the shutter speed is another important component and can get to be tricky when shooting in low light. For instance the shot of the cannon was when I really started to think that. So I looked at the exif and saw the the one that was blurry was shot at 1/4" - that's very hard to do hand held especially with out stabilization either in the camera or lens. The one in focus was at a slightly faster shutter speed - although still very slow at 1/6". The keeper rate will be low unless you're steady as a rock when shooting. It's similar on the Capt. Jack Sparrow picture. First blurry one was at 1/6" and the second one was a faster shutter speed at 1/13" that gave a better chance of getting the shot.

In low light situations another thing is to try shutter priority and set that as low as you feel comfortable hand holding. Bump the ISO and let the aperture fall where it may. Just something else to play around with if you haven't already.
 
Can anyone recommend a good one at a lower cost? Mostly just need something for family shots. Looked at the RC 6. Am I correct in guessing that a sensor in the camera would react to the remote? no other cords needed, just a remote (for the wireless) :rolleyes1

thank you.
 
Can anyone recommend a good one at a lower cost? Mostly just need something for family shots. Looked at the RC 6. Am I correct in guessing that a sensor in the camera would react to the remote? no other cords needed, just a remote (for the wireless) :rolleyes1

thank you.

look at the Yongnuo RF-602 - it can be used as a remote shutter release or activate an external flash off camera
 
Can anyone recommend a good one at a lower cost? Mostly just need something for family shots. Looked at the RC 6. Am I correct in guessing that a sensor in the camera would react to the remote? no other cords needed, just a remote (for the wireless) :rolleyes1

I've got one of these -- Satechi WR-C100 Wireless Remote Control for Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT, XTi, XSi, XS, T1i, T2i & Canon Powershot G10, G11 & Pentax K7 Digital SLR -- from Amazon, for my T2i, and it works very well.

You are not quite correct. There isn't a sensor in the camera, just a place to plug one in.

The remote control comes in two parts; one that plugs into the remote jack on the side of your camera and the other is the wireless transmitter.

You can also use the plugged-in part as a "wired" remote (it's very useful for astrophotography, because it can lock the shutter button down for *long* bulb exposures).
 
Canon's RC series work with the infrared sensor in the camera to control the shutter, no wires or anything else needed. Although the sensor is on the front of the camera there is no need to stand in front, just hold the remote sort of off to the side of the lens and aim it at the camera, it will work ok.

Canon's RC-1 has really gone up in price but it is tiny and can be secured to the camera strap with velcro, I always have mine with me that way. The wired RS60 remote works with the connector in the camera and costs less.
 
I have a wireless Canon remote for my T1i. I'm not sure of the model number, but I don't think it was more than about $30. DH got it for me for my birthday last year. It has a holder that slides on to the camera strap and you can pop it off. Sounds like the one Bob mentioned.
 
I don't post on here a lot, but I am looking for a new camera and wanted to get some opinions. I found a Canon Kiss X2, which is evidently the Japanese market version of the EOS 450D or Rebel XSi. It was purchsed in Hong Kong. Does anyone know if this is a good camera. I am FAR from a professional and would place myself on the middle end of novice, but I am really interested in something better than my point and shoot. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, this is a used camera and they are asking $400. I don't know if that is a good price or not?!

BTW, forgot to add. My DH is researching the camera using Google and other tools, but we know very little about photography and cameras, so thus far that research hasn't been very useful!
 
That is a reasonably good entry level camera for its generation. Newer models are better, but they also cost more. $400 seems to be about the market price for a used XSi based on what they sell for used on Amazon.
 
I don't post on here a lot, but I am looking for a new camera and wanted to get some opinions. I found a Canon Kiss X2, which is evidently the Japanese market version of the EOS 450D or Rebel XSi. It was purchsed in Hong Kong. Does anyone know if this is a good camera. I am FAR from a professional and would place myself on the middle end of novice, but I am really interested in something better than my point and shoot. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, this is a used camera and they are asking $400. I don't know if that is a good price or not?!

BTW, forgot to add. My DH is researching the camera using Google and other tools, but we know very little about photography and cameras, so thus far that research hasn't been very useful!

not a good price!
used XSi (450D) sell for less, check the used buy/sell listings at
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/
Adorama recently sold refurbished XSi/450D with the 18-55IS kit lens that included a one year warranty for $479
Although the XSi is a great camera (I own one!) save a little more and get a newer model like the T1i (500D) or T2i (550D)
 
Wow! Thanks guys! I spent the bulk of last evening researching cameras and I really must tell you, I am MORE confused NOW than I was yesterday.

I see all of the photos on these threads (on the photography board mostly) and I REALLY want to take photos like that!

So, I guess what I really need to know is, just to get started, what do I need? Like I said, I am on the middle end of novice! Although, recently all I have used is a point and shoot. I don't want to, nor can I spend a lot of money (in the beginning), I was thinking in the $600 range. But after researching last night, it appears that a lot of these cameras come with just the body and no lenses, which means more investing!!

Any suggestions you all could offer in the $600 range would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to get ripped off if I buy used and like I said, I am more lost now (after research) than ever!

If it helps I won't be shooting wildlife or anything like that!!! Mostly just kids, pets, the beach (sunsets and rises), things like that.
 
Each one of us has our manufacturer that for whatever reason we are loyal to. Saying that and looking at your qualifications for a new camera, entry level with lenses with a budget of $600. I would recommend the Black Pentax Kx with the 18-55, 50-200mm lens kit. That currently goes for $586 at B & H with free shipping. The Kx is a very good entry level camera introduced in Sept. 2009. It does come in colors, but those are more expensive. The camera use AA batteries and you will need a memory card or two. They also have an 18-55, 55-300mm kit, but again that is over the $600 budget. The 55-300 is said to be better optically, but I have the 50-200 and it is one of my favorites. Before you purchase I would recommend handling whichever camera you end up with because the ergonomics are important. If the budget is really tight then B & H has the camera with just the 18-55mm for $489.95. I hope that is help and I'm sure there are similar recommendations from users of other brands.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651671-REG/Pentax_16301_Pentax_K_x_Digital_SLR.html
 

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