cheryllarsen
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2011
What a fabulous trip report. 
Eat, Pray, Love -- But Just the Eat Part: Italy 2023 Trip Report
- Thread starter Jess_S
- Start date
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
Trip Report: ABD Day 2
After another good night’s sleep (the Gran Melia’s beds are super comfy), we were up at 5 am for what I was expecting to be a trip highlight: a private tour of the Vatican Museums. Unfortunately, I woke up to an earache. I took a minute to feel sorry for myself. Then I took some aspirin and got ready for the day.
This was the first of 3 days where we needed to have covered knees and shoulders. D and I had purchased linen pants especially for the trip. (These were a great purchase; my pants were full length, but the linen material made them much cooler than the capri pants I had used for church and temple visits on prior trips). P wore hiking pants.
When I read the itinerary for this trip, I was a little worried about touring before breakfast. I get hangry when my mealtimes are off. It turns out that I needn’t have worried. The “breakfast at the Vatican” mentioned in the trip itinerary is actually second breakfast at the Vatican. Our first breakfast of the day was available from 5 am in the hotel’s lobby bar. We arrived in the bar around 5:30 to find a subdued group of fellow travelers enjoying the spread of pastries, fruit, yogurt, meats, and cheeses. I fueled up with some fruit, a croissant, and some much-needed coffee.
The Vatican is literally across the street from the Gran Melia, so I thought that we might walk to the museums. Instead, at 6 am, Gabby and Massi led us into a garage where our bus was parked. We then made a short drive to the far side of Vatican City where the museums are located. The longest part of the drive was the series of turns we had to make to get ourselves pointed in the correct direction after leaving our hotel.
When we arrived at the Vatican Museums, we assembled outside the museum gates where we were assigned to either the Pinocchio or Geppetto group and met our local guides. (At many of the attractions we visited, we were split into two smaller groups due to group size restrictions. I think this may be a relic of Covid, but it was a positive one. The smaller group sizes made it easier to maneuver in crowded locations). We were then briefed on how to clear security and made our way into the building. There was an opportunity to use the restrooms before we joined our guide, Christina, who led us into the museums.
The entrance to the Vatican Museums is via a spiral ramp that takes you up several stories. There are also elevators for those with mobility issues (and Christina, who – despite her high energy – doesn’t care for walking up hills). At the top of the ramp, we entered the museum. As we toured, the keeper of the keys walked in front of us, opening the rooms to the museum. Now, I knew from my pre-trip research that the Vatican Museums are typically very crowded, so I had some appreciation for how special it was to see the rooms completely empty. For that reason, I took just as many pictures of the empty rooms as I did of the art.
(Above: Christina with the keeper of the keys and literally nobody else)
(Above: Just us and the cleaning crew).
The Vatican Museums are a maze of rooms filled with centuries worth of amazing art, from Greek statutes and Roman mosaic to Renaissance masterpieces like Raphael’s the School of Athens and, of course, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling. You could probably spend days here. We had about an hour to explore, with Christina pointing out highlights for us. Then, at the end of the tour, the Pinocchio and Geppetto groups both assembled in the Sistine Chapel where we had a full 30-minutes to admire the ceiling. With just 40 people in the room, there was plenty of space to wander or to sit quietly and contemplate the art. This was one of those indescribable experiences where words fail. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos, so my inadequate description is all I have to share.
(Above from top to bottom: School of Athens, P admiring Laocoön)
As we left the Sistine Chapel, the museums opened to the public. Rooms that we had moved freely in filled with a sea of people packed in so tightly that it was difficult to see the floors. D, who until that moment had been complaining that he would have liked more time in the museums, quickly changed his view. An hour in an empty museum was just right, he now agreed.
We headed to a courtyard restaurant that – for some reason -- serves “American” breakfast. There, we had eggs, pancakes with imitation maple syrup, breakfast pastries, juice, and coffee. There was also plenty of meat for those who ate it. The quality of the food was on par with that of an American fast-food restaurant, but the convenience and opportunity to continue to experience the Vatican’s ambiance made it a special meal.
(Below: American breakfast at the Vatican)
After another good night’s sleep (the Gran Melia’s beds are super comfy), we were up at 5 am for what I was expecting to be a trip highlight: a private tour of the Vatican Museums. Unfortunately, I woke up to an earache. I took a minute to feel sorry for myself. Then I took some aspirin and got ready for the day.
This was the first of 3 days where we needed to have covered knees and shoulders. D and I had purchased linen pants especially for the trip. (These were a great purchase; my pants were full length, but the linen material made them much cooler than the capri pants I had used for church and temple visits on prior trips). P wore hiking pants.
When I read the itinerary for this trip, I was a little worried about touring before breakfast. I get hangry when my mealtimes are off. It turns out that I needn’t have worried. The “breakfast at the Vatican” mentioned in the trip itinerary is actually second breakfast at the Vatican. Our first breakfast of the day was available from 5 am in the hotel’s lobby bar. We arrived in the bar around 5:30 to find a subdued group of fellow travelers enjoying the spread of pastries, fruit, yogurt, meats, and cheeses. I fueled up with some fruit, a croissant, and some much-needed coffee.
The Vatican is literally across the street from the Gran Melia, so I thought that we might walk to the museums. Instead, at 6 am, Gabby and Massi led us into a garage where our bus was parked. We then made a short drive to the far side of Vatican City where the museums are located. The longest part of the drive was the series of turns we had to make to get ourselves pointed in the correct direction after leaving our hotel.
When we arrived at the Vatican Museums, we assembled outside the museum gates where we were assigned to either the Pinocchio or Geppetto group and met our local guides. (At many of the attractions we visited, we were split into two smaller groups due to group size restrictions. I think this may be a relic of Covid, but it was a positive one. The smaller group sizes made it easier to maneuver in crowded locations). We were then briefed on how to clear security and made our way into the building. There was an opportunity to use the restrooms before we joined our guide, Christina, who led us into the museums.
The entrance to the Vatican Museums is via a spiral ramp that takes you up several stories. There are also elevators for those with mobility issues (and Christina, who – despite her high energy – doesn’t care for walking up hills). At the top of the ramp, we entered the museum. As we toured, the keeper of the keys walked in front of us, opening the rooms to the museum. Now, I knew from my pre-trip research that the Vatican Museums are typically very crowded, so I had some appreciation for how special it was to see the rooms completely empty. For that reason, I took just as many pictures of the empty rooms as I did of the art.
(Above: Christina with the keeper of the keys and literally nobody else)
(Above: Just us and the cleaning crew).
The Vatican Museums are a maze of rooms filled with centuries worth of amazing art, from Greek statutes and Roman mosaic to Renaissance masterpieces like Raphael’s the School of Athens and, of course, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling. You could probably spend days here. We had about an hour to explore, with Christina pointing out highlights for us. Then, at the end of the tour, the Pinocchio and Geppetto groups both assembled in the Sistine Chapel where we had a full 30-minutes to admire the ceiling. With just 40 people in the room, there was plenty of space to wander or to sit quietly and contemplate the art. This was one of those indescribable experiences where words fail. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos, so my inadequate description is all I have to share.
(Above from top to bottom: School of Athens, P admiring Laocoön)
As we left the Sistine Chapel, the museums opened to the public. Rooms that we had moved freely in filled with a sea of people packed in so tightly that it was difficult to see the floors. D, who until that moment had been complaining that he would have liked more time in the museums, quickly changed his view. An hour in an empty museum was just right, he now agreed.
We headed to a courtyard restaurant that – for some reason -- serves “American” breakfast. There, we had eggs, pancakes with imitation maple syrup, breakfast pastries, juice, and coffee. There was also plenty of meat for those who ate it. The quality of the food was on par with that of an American fast-food restaurant, but the convenience and opportunity to continue to experience the Vatican’s ambiance made it a special meal.
(Below: American breakfast at the Vatican)
Last edited:
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
ABD Day 2: Part 2
After breakfast, we braved the crowds inside the Vatican museums to use the restrooms. (This is worth doing just to appreciate how special the private tour was). Then, we walked back to the bus. Next on our packed itinerary was a walking tour of the historic heart of Rome. Our driver (Massi, but not that Massi) took us back across the river and dropped us off in a neighborhood at the top of the Spanish steps. Of course, I did not realize this right away. It was only when D elbowed me as we were walking down a rather large set of stairs that I realized we were on those stairs.
Entering the most touristy part of Rome by descending the Spanish steps is a great way to do it. You get a panoramic view of the area from the top of the steps and then slowly descend into the tourist crowds. From the Spanish steps, we walked to a fountain where we were able to fill our water bottles with the same water that fills the Trevi fountain. (The water in the Trevi fountain is recycled, though, so you definitely don’t want to fill your bottle there).
Then, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain itself. Gabby had coins ready for us so that we could perform the coin-throwing ritual that would ensure our return to Rome. I’m not a particularly superstitious person, but I certainly hope that this particular ritual works. After coin throwing and family photos, we had some time to spend at the fountain. We found a shady spot to sit where we could both admire the fountain and recover from the heat.
Our next stop was the Pantheon. This was another location where covered knees and shoulders are required. It was also the first place where we encountered aggressive vendors. I suppose that I should admire the zeal with which they tried to sell shoulder coverings to people who were very clearly wearing sleeved shirts. While we were declining to purchase various wraps and shawls, Massi and Gabby were showing our tickets to security. When we were finally cleared to enter, a family who had moments earlier been told they were in the wrong line seized the opportunity to gain free priority admission to the Pantheon by mingling with our group. So, budget traveler tip, I guess?
The Pantheon is one of the best preserved ancient Roman buildings. Like the Colosseum, it was spared from destruction because it was turned into a church. But, unlike the Colosseum, the Pantheon was converted to its current use before its marble was stripped away. The most noteworthy feature of the Pantheon is its doomed roof. It was the inspiration for two other domes we would see later in the trip: St. Peter’s in the Vatican and the Duomo in Florence.
After our time in the Pantheon, we made a brief stop in Piazza Navona to view the fountain of the four rivers. There, I impressed our guide by correctly guessing that the animal chosen to represent the Americas was supposed to be an armadillo. When our guide asked how I knew, I pointed to the animal’s scales. The real answer, of course, is that I spent many years watching Wild Kratts with P. If an animal appeared on that show, you can bet I know it. There were no screen time limits in our house, folks. And look how it paid off.
(Above: Clearly an armadillo)
Our final activity for the day was lunch at a Neapolitan pizza place. Soft drinks, salad, and pizza were included in our tour price. Wine and beer were also available for purchase. The first pizza to come out was a traditional margherita. I found it to be bland and soggy. (I’m not sure if this is because I don’t like Neapolitan pizza, or if this just wasn’t a great representation of Neapolitan pizza). After the margherita, we received a 4 cheese that we enjoyed a bit more. It was still soggy, but the cheese blend was flavorful.
By this point, we had eaten 3 salads and 2 full pizzas between us. We were full. We declined the diavolo pizza explaining that we did not eat meat. Then, we started to gather our things to leave. As we were standing, our waitress returned with a vegetable pizza. We politely declined, explaining that we were full. The waitress left with the pizza. Then, she returned with the pizza and another woman, who I assume was her manager. The new woman told us that we had to take the pizza because we had ordered it.
“We didn’t order another pizza,” I responded, puzzled.
The two women left with the pizza. A few seconds later they were back with the pizza still in hand. This time, they offered to pack it to go. It was a nice thought, and I am pretty sure we offended everyone at the restaurant when we declined the to go option.
After lunch, everyone was given the option to either return to the Gran Melia on the bus or stay in the historic center to explore. We followed the majority back to the bus. A short and delightfully air-conditioned ride deposited us back at the hotel. Once there, P and D made a beeline for the pool. I stayed in our room because the time had come to deal with my earache.
I was not looking forward to a doctor’s visit in a foreign country (or figuring out the process for obtaining an insurance reimbursement for that visit). Fortunately, my health insurance offers 24/7 telemed visits. I decided to videochat with a provider in the US to figure out if my ear could be treated without an in-person doctor’s visit. This turned out to be a great decision. The doctor I spoke with felt strongly that my ear problems were allergy related and recommended that I try OTC allergy pills. I hung up the call feeling quite grateful that a telemed visit had been an option. Then, I researched the Italian name for the medication I had been told to find and took a walk to the nearest pharmacy.
Unlike American pharmacies, Italian pharmacies keep most of their OTC medicines behind the counter. That meant that I had no choice but to speak with the pharmacist. She immediately realized that I was a foreigner and was able to help me in flawless English. The pharmacy had exactly what I was looking for. And, again unlike American pharmacies, the medicine was priced at an affordable 4 euros.
I went back to the hotel, took my pill and rested for a bit. Then I repacked our suitcases in anticipation of our transfer to Tuscany the following day. After my rest, I found P and D at the pool. We stayed there until it was time to get cleaned up for dinner.
A few weeks before our trip, I learned about a restaurant called Mater Terrae on the Tripadvisor forums. It is a vegetarian restaurant that earned a Michelin Green Star. As the Michelin website explains, “the Green Star highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices.” Although the restaurant is pricey, we could not resist the opportunity to eat a Michelin-awarded vegetarian meal. We decided to call it an early anniversary dinner (our anniversary is at the end of July) and I made a reservation.
Mater Terrae is set on the rooftop of a hotel. In good weather, they offer dining on the terrace, which looks out over the rooftops of Rome. The weather was absolutely perfect for outdoor dining and – because it was an anniversary dinner – we were seated at a corner table overlooking the Vatican.
Our meal was special in every way. Special occasion, beautiful views, wonderful food and wine, and our special dining companion, a random seagull. We started with fried artichokes for D and I and a cheese-stuffed focaccia for P. Then D and I each had a pasta course and a main. D went with eggplant and I decided to order an asparagus dish because it was something unique. Finally, we each ordered dessert: tiramisu for P, zabaglione for D and a crepe and ice cream dish for me. By the time we finished our meal, the sun had fully set and we were looking out over the twinkling lights of Rome.
After our meal, we walked back to the hotel through the cobblestone alleys of Rome. It was after 10 pm, but cafes were still packed with dinners and many shops were still open. As we crossed the river, we heard jazz music and we peaked over the bridge to see a riverside jazz club packed with people. Although the city was still awake, we were ready for bed.
After breakfast, we braved the crowds inside the Vatican museums to use the restrooms. (This is worth doing just to appreciate how special the private tour was). Then, we walked back to the bus. Next on our packed itinerary was a walking tour of the historic heart of Rome. Our driver (Massi, but not that Massi) took us back across the river and dropped us off in a neighborhood at the top of the Spanish steps. Of course, I did not realize this right away. It was only when D elbowed me as we were walking down a rather large set of stairs that I realized we were on those stairs.
Entering the most touristy part of Rome by descending the Spanish steps is a great way to do it. You get a panoramic view of the area from the top of the steps and then slowly descend into the tourist crowds. From the Spanish steps, we walked to a fountain where we were able to fill our water bottles with the same water that fills the Trevi fountain. (The water in the Trevi fountain is recycled, though, so you definitely don’t want to fill your bottle there).
Then, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain itself. Gabby had coins ready for us so that we could perform the coin-throwing ritual that would ensure our return to Rome. I’m not a particularly superstitious person, but I certainly hope that this particular ritual works. After coin throwing and family photos, we had some time to spend at the fountain. We found a shady spot to sit where we could both admire the fountain and recover from the heat.
Our next stop was the Pantheon. This was another location where covered knees and shoulders are required. It was also the first place where we encountered aggressive vendors. I suppose that I should admire the zeal with which they tried to sell shoulder coverings to people who were very clearly wearing sleeved shirts. While we were declining to purchase various wraps and shawls, Massi and Gabby were showing our tickets to security. When we were finally cleared to enter, a family who had moments earlier been told they were in the wrong line seized the opportunity to gain free priority admission to the Pantheon by mingling with our group. So, budget traveler tip, I guess?
The Pantheon is one of the best preserved ancient Roman buildings. Like the Colosseum, it was spared from destruction because it was turned into a church. But, unlike the Colosseum, the Pantheon was converted to its current use before its marble was stripped away. The most noteworthy feature of the Pantheon is its doomed roof. It was the inspiration for two other domes we would see later in the trip: St. Peter’s in the Vatican and the Duomo in Florence.
After our time in the Pantheon, we made a brief stop in Piazza Navona to view the fountain of the four rivers. There, I impressed our guide by correctly guessing that the animal chosen to represent the Americas was supposed to be an armadillo. When our guide asked how I knew, I pointed to the animal’s scales. The real answer, of course, is that I spent many years watching Wild Kratts with P. If an animal appeared on that show, you can bet I know it. There were no screen time limits in our house, folks. And look how it paid off.
(Above: Clearly an armadillo)
Our final activity for the day was lunch at a Neapolitan pizza place. Soft drinks, salad, and pizza were included in our tour price. Wine and beer were also available for purchase. The first pizza to come out was a traditional margherita. I found it to be bland and soggy. (I’m not sure if this is because I don’t like Neapolitan pizza, or if this just wasn’t a great representation of Neapolitan pizza). After the margherita, we received a 4 cheese that we enjoyed a bit more. It was still soggy, but the cheese blend was flavorful.
By this point, we had eaten 3 salads and 2 full pizzas between us. We were full. We declined the diavolo pizza explaining that we did not eat meat. Then, we started to gather our things to leave. As we were standing, our waitress returned with a vegetable pizza. We politely declined, explaining that we were full. The waitress left with the pizza. Then, she returned with the pizza and another woman, who I assume was her manager. The new woman told us that we had to take the pizza because we had ordered it.
“We didn’t order another pizza,” I responded, puzzled.
The two women left with the pizza. A few seconds later they were back with the pizza still in hand. This time, they offered to pack it to go. It was a nice thought, and I am pretty sure we offended everyone at the restaurant when we declined the to go option.
After lunch, everyone was given the option to either return to the Gran Melia on the bus or stay in the historic center to explore. We followed the majority back to the bus. A short and delightfully air-conditioned ride deposited us back at the hotel. Once there, P and D made a beeline for the pool. I stayed in our room because the time had come to deal with my earache.
I was not looking forward to a doctor’s visit in a foreign country (or figuring out the process for obtaining an insurance reimbursement for that visit). Fortunately, my health insurance offers 24/7 telemed visits. I decided to videochat with a provider in the US to figure out if my ear could be treated without an in-person doctor’s visit. This turned out to be a great decision. The doctor I spoke with felt strongly that my ear problems were allergy related and recommended that I try OTC allergy pills. I hung up the call feeling quite grateful that a telemed visit had been an option. Then, I researched the Italian name for the medication I had been told to find and took a walk to the nearest pharmacy.
Unlike American pharmacies, Italian pharmacies keep most of their OTC medicines behind the counter. That meant that I had no choice but to speak with the pharmacist. She immediately realized that I was a foreigner and was able to help me in flawless English. The pharmacy had exactly what I was looking for. And, again unlike American pharmacies, the medicine was priced at an affordable 4 euros.
I went back to the hotel, took my pill and rested for a bit. Then I repacked our suitcases in anticipation of our transfer to Tuscany the following day. After my rest, I found P and D at the pool. We stayed there until it was time to get cleaned up for dinner.
A few weeks before our trip, I learned about a restaurant called Mater Terrae on the Tripadvisor forums. It is a vegetarian restaurant that earned a Michelin Green Star. As the Michelin website explains, “the Green Star highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices.” Although the restaurant is pricey, we could not resist the opportunity to eat a Michelin-awarded vegetarian meal. We decided to call it an early anniversary dinner (our anniversary is at the end of July) and I made a reservation.
Mater Terrae is set on the rooftop of a hotel. In good weather, they offer dining on the terrace, which looks out over the rooftops of Rome. The weather was absolutely perfect for outdoor dining and – because it was an anniversary dinner – we were seated at a corner table overlooking the Vatican.
Our meal was special in every way. Special occasion, beautiful views, wonderful food and wine, and our special dining companion, a random seagull. We started with fried artichokes for D and I and a cheese-stuffed focaccia for P. Then D and I each had a pasta course and a main. D went with eggplant and I decided to order an asparagus dish because it was something unique. Finally, we each ordered dessert: tiramisu for P, zabaglione for D and a crepe and ice cream dish for me. By the time we finished our meal, the sun had fully set and we were looking out over the twinkling lights of Rome.
After our meal, we walked back to the hotel through the cobblestone alleys of Rome. It was after 10 pm, but cafes were still packed with dinners and many shops were still open. As we crossed the river, we heard jazz music and we peaked over the bridge to see a riverside jazz club packed with people. Although the city was still awake, we were ready for bed.
Last edited:
CaliforniaGirl09
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2009
Sounds like a great trip so far! And very opportunistic of the family who got in line with you guys! I'm surprised ABD didn't have them booted and/or there wasn't a headcount.
sayhello
Have Camera, Will Travel
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
I'm also surprised the Guides didn't boot the family that piggy-backed on your entrance. They're usually pretty diligent about that! I *SO* wish we'd had the private entrance to the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel when I was there. But it was a Med Cruise ABD add-on, and I'm sure there was no way to get us there early enough for that! I still loved going there, but I can't imagine how amazing it must have been with only 40 people!
And your anniversary dinner sounds fabulous! I'm so glad you were able to take advantage of that!
Sayhello
And your anniversary dinner sounds fabulous! I'm so glad you were able to take advantage of that!
Sayhello
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
I am sure that someone must have known that the count was off by the end. It's even possible that Gabby or Massi saw the line jumpers and handled it discretely. From my vantage point, though, it seemed like they got away with free entry. The guard who was counting had no way to know which 40 people he was supposed to let in and waived them through.
We were at the Vatican by 6:30, so I am sure you are right that there's no way to make the early entry a part of a cruise add on. Gabby has been doing both the Rome Escape and Viva Italia this summer so she has a first hand real time comparison of entering with crowds versus privately. She stressed a few times how special the early entry is, even for guides. But she really didn't need to because it was clear that everyone in our group appreciated what a privilege it was. I think the only negative is that I probably can't come back to the Vatican on my own without it feeling like a bit of a letdown.
I would definitely recommend the restaurant, even to meat eaters. It's a veggie focused menu, so nothing that would seem weird to non-veg diners. And the location on a nice night can't be beat.
So, yes, great day all around. This was one of my favorite days of the trip, I think.
The private tour of the Sistine Chapel was the highlight when I went on this ABD trip. Being able to experience and contemplate that masterpiece in a small group and a quiet environment, rather than part of a swirling mosh pit of people, was something I very much appreciated.
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
I think you will have a great trip. The guides did give recommendations on dining. In Rome, they shared suggestions if you asked. In Tuscany, Florence and Venice, it was a more general list for everyone. We ate at a recommended restaurant in Florence and it was good.
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
I'm sorry that it has taken me so long to continue this trip report. Here is the next installment.
Trip Report: ABD Day 3
July 6, 2023
When we left off, we had returned to the Gran Melia after a wonderful final night in Rome. The following morning, we were up and out of our room by 7:30 – the luggage pickup time. (Whenever there is a hotel transfer, ABD picks up luggage from the hallway outside your room and delivers it to the next room). After our final breakfast in Rome, we still had quite a while until the 8:30 meetup time. Fortunately, it was another sunny day in Rome, so we relaxed in the courtyard and chatted with some of the other folks in our tour group while we waited.
At 8:30, we piled into the coach for the short drive back to the Vatican to visit St. Peter’s Basilica. This was a change from original itinerary for our trip, which had the basilica visit scheduled right after our breakfast at the Vatican. I did not ask the guides the reason for the change, but I suspect that the goal was to avoid the long security lines to enter the basilica that develop by mid-morning. By the time we arrived, there was already a decent line to clear security and enter St. Peter’s. We were told that the line usually moves quickly. Unfortunately, there was only one security lane open that morning, so we had a 20-to-30-minute wait.
Once our whole group cleared security, we divided into two smaller groups for our tour of St. Peter’s Them we headed straight for . . . the bathroom. After our potty break, it was finally time to enter the basilica. Our visit began with a short, guided tour with Christina. We then had time to explore on our own.
I have never found God in a church, and I did not find Him in St. Peter’s. However, standing in the immenseness of the basilica and looking up, I felt very, very small. In that way, it is the manmade place that – for me -- has come closest to recreating the experience of being in nature. All that, and there are mummified popes.
After exploring for a bit, we reassembled with our group to visit Michelangelo’s famous Pieta sculpture. The Pieta is easy to identify because it is ringed with throngs of tourists. “Fortunately, you had time to see the sculpture up close before it got too crowded,” Christina told us, in an example of a situation where late and never were about equally useful. Even with the crowds, I was able to weasel my way close to the sculpture. Then, I looked into Mary’s face and fought back tears. There’s plenty written about why this particular Pieta is a masterpiece; all I can say is that if you see it, you will understand.
We then exited St. Peter’s for some photos in St. Peter’s Square and an opportunity to visit one of the Vatican gift shops. We always buy a Christmas ornament from each of our trips, and I can see the nativity scene that we purchased in the Vatican hanging on my tree as a type this. (As an FYI, there is a charge to use the restrooms in the Vatican gift shop, but those who make a purchase get a coupon for a free potty break. So, shop first, dear reader).
By the time we were done shopping, it was late morning, and I was starting to get hungry. But I decided to tough it out because I felt confident that there would be snacks on the bus. This meant that I spent my last minutes in the Vatican hangry; I channeled the hanger into angry looks at the many people puffing cigarette smoke into my face. My faith in our guides was rewarded when we climbed aboard the bus, though. As we left Rome, they passed a bucket of candy and a basket of other snacks. I had my final look at the Tiber as I munched on pistachio cookies and listened to Dean Martin sing Arrivederci Roma. I thought the music was cute touch; D thought it was a good incentive to dig out his noise cancelling headphones.
Our next destination was the Umbrian town of Orvieto, about 90 minutes outside Rome. Orvieto is a hill town, so called because it is on top of a hill. The bus parked at the base of the hill, and we took an elevator up into the town. Then, after some family photos in front of the duomo, we headed to a local restaurant for lunch and wine tasting. Now, as you probably don’t recall because it has been months since my last post, I was still struggling with dizziness from allergies. But the wine was included in our tour price, so I had to drink it. (They had non-alcoholic options, of course. But they also had wine. So, really, I had no choice).
This was a leisurely and enjoyable meal. We sampled different cheeses and vinegars, some appetizers, a main, dessert, and – of course – wine. After lunch, we had time to explore the town. As you might expect, our first order of business was to find some gelato. Although I am not sure how I managed to eat it, I thought my ricotta and marmalade cone was the best of the trip. After gelato, we spent some time in the duomo. The duomo was built in medieval times and updated over the intervening centuries. Its most important feature remains the flying cows on its façade.
I’m making most of this up, other than the flying cows. The duomo clearly has some stories to tell. The scorch marks on the stone and the melted stained glass were of particular interest to us, but there wasn’t much in the way of interpretative material inside the building. So, we were left to wonder.
After visiting the duomo, we walked around town a bit more and poked into some of the shops. Unfortunately, before too long, it was time to head back to the bus to finish our journey to Tuscany. (I suspect that our morning visit to St. Peter’s had cut short our time in Orvieto. But I don’t know that there is a better solution to the puzzle of how to fit St. Peter’s in the schedule).
After another two-hour bus journey, we pulled up to Hotel Borgo Di Cortefreda in the Tuscan town of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. We were welcomed to the hotel with an outdoor reception. As we mostly didn’t eat prosecco, fruit, and caprese salad (because everyone was pretty set on food by this point), our guide passed out our room keys and the hotel cat made the rounds. One of our fellow guests later told us that the same cat had presented them with a mouse later in the day, so the human staff weren’t the only ones providing a warm welcome.
Once we had our keys, we headed to our room. It was straight out of central casting for a Tuscan hotel room, from the views of rolling hills to the colorful vespas parked below our window. P was excited to find that he had his own private loft and immediately made himself at home by decoratively scattering his socks around. Before too long, our luggage arrived, and we changed into our swimming gear for a visit to the pool. Like our room, the pool was ideally situated with views of the Tuscan countryside on 3 sides. (The pool is quite small given the size of the hotel, though, so actually swimming is something of an issue).
Soon, it was time to get cleaned up for dinner. This evening’s meal was one I had been looking forward to: a soda tasting and kids’ dinner for P and an adult dinner and wine tasting for D and me. ABD does an adult meal with separate activities for the kids on most of its trips and it had been a highlight of the Scotland trip for me. The dinner in Italy did not quite live up to the high standards set by the Scotland trip. Food-wise, it was my least favorite meal of the trip. (We had pasta and a stuffed artichoke; the main dish for meat eaters was platters of meat with a side of more meat). After dinner, D and I took a short walk around the hotel grounds, then headed downstairs to pick P up. P reported that the “lawn games” listed on the itinerary did not happen. However, he did have a soda tasting, dinner, and a movie night. Although the lobby bar was still open, we elected to head to our room to relax. I don’t know if it was the heat or the 3rd wine-tasting of the day, but I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
Trip Report: ABD Day 3
July 6, 2023
When we left off, we had returned to the Gran Melia after a wonderful final night in Rome. The following morning, we were up and out of our room by 7:30 – the luggage pickup time. (Whenever there is a hotel transfer, ABD picks up luggage from the hallway outside your room and delivers it to the next room). After our final breakfast in Rome, we still had quite a while until the 8:30 meetup time. Fortunately, it was another sunny day in Rome, so we relaxed in the courtyard and chatted with some of the other folks in our tour group while we waited.
At 8:30, we piled into the coach for the short drive back to the Vatican to visit St. Peter’s Basilica. This was a change from original itinerary for our trip, which had the basilica visit scheduled right after our breakfast at the Vatican. I did not ask the guides the reason for the change, but I suspect that the goal was to avoid the long security lines to enter the basilica that develop by mid-morning. By the time we arrived, there was already a decent line to clear security and enter St. Peter’s. We were told that the line usually moves quickly. Unfortunately, there was only one security lane open that morning, so we had a 20-to-30-minute wait.
Once our whole group cleared security, we divided into two smaller groups for our tour of St. Peter’s Them we headed straight for . . . the bathroom. After our potty break, it was finally time to enter the basilica. Our visit began with a short, guided tour with Christina. We then had time to explore on our own.
I have never found God in a church, and I did not find Him in St. Peter’s. However, standing in the immenseness of the basilica and looking up, I felt very, very small. In that way, it is the manmade place that – for me -- has come closest to recreating the experience of being in nature. All that, and there are mummified popes.
After exploring for a bit, we reassembled with our group to visit Michelangelo’s famous Pieta sculpture. The Pieta is easy to identify because it is ringed with throngs of tourists. “Fortunately, you had time to see the sculpture up close before it got too crowded,” Christina told us, in an example of a situation where late and never were about equally useful. Even with the crowds, I was able to weasel my way close to the sculpture. Then, I looked into Mary’s face and fought back tears. There’s plenty written about why this particular Pieta is a masterpiece; all I can say is that if you see it, you will understand.
We then exited St. Peter’s for some photos in St. Peter’s Square and an opportunity to visit one of the Vatican gift shops. We always buy a Christmas ornament from each of our trips, and I can see the nativity scene that we purchased in the Vatican hanging on my tree as a type this. (As an FYI, there is a charge to use the restrooms in the Vatican gift shop, but those who make a purchase get a coupon for a free potty break. So, shop first, dear reader).
By the time we were done shopping, it was late morning, and I was starting to get hungry. But I decided to tough it out because I felt confident that there would be snacks on the bus. This meant that I spent my last minutes in the Vatican hangry; I channeled the hanger into angry looks at the many people puffing cigarette smoke into my face. My faith in our guides was rewarded when we climbed aboard the bus, though. As we left Rome, they passed a bucket of candy and a basket of other snacks. I had my final look at the Tiber as I munched on pistachio cookies and listened to Dean Martin sing Arrivederci Roma. I thought the music was cute touch; D thought it was a good incentive to dig out his noise cancelling headphones.
Our next destination was the Umbrian town of Orvieto, about 90 minutes outside Rome. Orvieto is a hill town, so called because it is on top of a hill. The bus parked at the base of the hill, and we took an elevator up into the town. Then, after some family photos in front of the duomo, we headed to a local restaurant for lunch and wine tasting. Now, as you probably don’t recall because it has been months since my last post, I was still struggling with dizziness from allergies. But the wine was included in our tour price, so I had to drink it. (They had non-alcoholic options, of course. But they also had wine. So, really, I had no choice).
This was a leisurely and enjoyable meal. We sampled different cheeses and vinegars, some appetizers, a main, dessert, and – of course – wine. After lunch, we had time to explore the town. As you might expect, our first order of business was to find some gelato. Although I am not sure how I managed to eat it, I thought my ricotta and marmalade cone was the best of the trip. After gelato, we spent some time in the duomo. The duomo was built in medieval times and updated over the intervening centuries. Its most important feature remains the flying cows on its façade.
I’m making most of this up, other than the flying cows. The duomo clearly has some stories to tell. The scorch marks on the stone and the melted stained glass were of particular interest to us, but there wasn’t much in the way of interpretative material inside the building. So, we were left to wonder.
After visiting the duomo, we walked around town a bit more and poked into some of the shops. Unfortunately, before too long, it was time to head back to the bus to finish our journey to Tuscany. (I suspect that our morning visit to St. Peter’s had cut short our time in Orvieto. But I don’t know that there is a better solution to the puzzle of how to fit St. Peter’s in the schedule).
After another two-hour bus journey, we pulled up to Hotel Borgo Di Cortefreda in the Tuscan town of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. We were welcomed to the hotel with an outdoor reception. As we mostly didn’t eat prosecco, fruit, and caprese salad (because everyone was pretty set on food by this point), our guide passed out our room keys and the hotel cat made the rounds. One of our fellow guests later told us that the same cat had presented them with a mouse later in the day, so the human staff weren’t the only ones providing a warm welcome.
Once we had our keys, we headed to our room. It was straight out of central casting for a Tuscan hotel room, from the views of rolling hills to the colorful vespas parked below our window. P was excited to find that he had his own private loft and immediately made himself at home by decoratively scattering his socks around. Before too long, our luggage arrived, and we changed into our swimming gear for a visit to the pool. Like our room, the pool was ideally situated with views of the Tuscan countryside on 3 sides. (The pool is quite small given the size of the hotel, though, so actually swimming is something of an issue).
Soon, it was time to get cleaned up for dinner. This evening’s meal was one I had been looking forward to: a soda tasting and kids’ dinner for P and an adult dinner and wine tasting for D and me. ABD does an adult meal with separate activities for the kids on most of its trips and it had been a highlight of the Scotland trip for me. The dinner in Italy did not quite live up to the high standards set by the Scotland trip. Food-wise, it was my least favorite meal of the trip. (We had pasta and a stuffed artichoke; the main dish for meat eaters was platters of meat with a side of more meat). After dinner, D and I took a short walk around the hotel grounds, then headed downstairs to pick P up. P reported that the “lawn games” listed on the itinerary did not happen. However, he did have a soda tasting, dinner, and a movie night. Although the lobby bar was still open, we elected to head to our room to relax. I don’t know if it was the heat or the 3rd wine-tasting of the day, but I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
Trip Report - ABD Day 4
July 7, 2023
The fourth day of our ABD tour was probably my favorite of the trip. I woke up to a beautiful Tuscan morning – clear sunny skies, rolling green hills, and peaceful quiet. Because we had a later start, I decided to begin my day by visiting the hotel gym.
Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda’s gym is a small, windowless room in the basement that contains a few pieces of ancient cardio equipment. I was the only person there. I stepped onto the elliptical and started to pedal; nothing happened. After an unsuccessful attempt to revive the dead machine, I switched to the treadmill. I stepped up on the machine, started the treadmill, and … nothing. Then, as I was standing on the treadmill fruitlessly adjusting the speed and incline, the belt suddenly lurched to life. I pitched forward but thankfully managed to catch myself. (If I hadn’t, I imagine it would have been weeks – if not months -- before anyone discovered my mangled body).
After the excitement of my workout, I went back upstairs to get ready for the day and wake up my family. While D and P were getting dressed, I got a jump start on breakfast. The highlight of the breakfast buffet at Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda is the pistachio croissants, which receive a coveted 10/10, must eat rating. I would have been happy with just the croissants, but I did round out my meal with fruit, yogurt, and coffee. In case you were wondering, D and P did eventually join me. Neither of them tried the croissants.
From breakfast, we headed directly to the lobby to meet our group for the day’s activities. We boarded the coach to find it adorned with streamers, banners, and balloons. One of our fellow travelers was celebrating her 50th birthday and Gabby and Massi had gone all out with decorations. It made for a festive atmosphere on the bus as we made the short trip to Fattoria Poggio Alloro, a family farm in the rolling hills near the town of San Gimignano.
At the farm, we were greeted by Sarah, one of the farm’s proprietors. Then we were given aprons and Sarah showed us how she makes homemade pasta, effortlessly turning out everything from long, skinny fettucine to cute little bowtie farfalle. After the demonstration, it was our turn to make our own pasta dough. Each of us received the flour, water, and eggs needed to make Sarah’s recipe. As we laboriously turned out hunk after hunk of overworked, dry noodle, we began to worry that we would actually have to eat the fruits of our labor. Fortunately, it turned out that our pasta was for display purposes only. (And it does look almost edible in the photos that Gabby took).
(Despite appearances, this man does not know how to make pasta).
After pasta making, we had a short tour of the farm, led by Sarah and her dog, Cappuccino. We learned a bit about wine making, met some heifers, and saw the various crops the farm produces.
(Above: Sarah; Below: Cappuccino)
Then, it was time for wine tasting. (If you are counting, this was our 3rd wine tasting in 2 days). The wine tasting was held on a patio with glorious views of the countryside with the towers of San Gimignano in the distance. While the adults tasted wine, the guides took the junior adventurers for an olive oil flavoring activity. P was light on details about what the activity entailed, but he did present us with a small bottle of sage and basil flavored olive oil upon his return.
While P was laboring, D and I did the hard work of drinking several glasses of wine before lunch. Then it was time for lunch – and more wine. Our meal included a classic Tuscan bruschetta, which is just grilled bread with olive oil; two types of homemade pasta, fettucine with a red sauce and a saffron vegetable sauce; salad; and a choice of chocolate mousse or panna cotta.
After our meal, there was time to visit the farm’s gift shop before returning to the bus. I purchased a copy of Sarah’s cookbook and suggested that we ship some wine home. D refused, claiming that he “did not drink wine.” (As you may recall, this same man had just participated in 3 wine tastings over a 24-hour period). As I sit typing this without any Tuscan wine, I regret my decision to go along with D’s wine purchase veto.
We spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel and visiting the hotel pool. Dinner that evening was at Castello di Oliveto, a 15th-century manor home. The castello sits at the top of a dirt road that our big coach could not navigate, so we were divided into two smaller vans. As we set out for our destination, we quickly noticed that the van’s air conditioning was blowing hot air. The twisting roads combined with the roasting temperatures were a recipe for motion sickness. Fortunately, however, once made aware of the situation, our driver was able to fix the air conditioning by administering a gentle beating to the van’s dashboard. After the temperature in the van improved, I was able to enjoy the rest of the ride to the castello.
Castello di Oliveto was once a vacation home of the Dei Pucci family, nobility from nearby Florence. Today, it is an event venue. On this evening, our group had the castle and grounds to ourselves for a private tour and meal. We ate in a large banquet hall surrounded by portraits of the castello’s more illustrious visitors; they included popes and kings, but no tour group participants. The food was excellent. And there was more wine, of course. Our meal began with Pappa al Pomodoro, a Tuscan dish made of tomato sauce and old bread. I know that doesn’t sound like much, but it was delicious. The vegetarian entrée was a tagliatelle with a meatless ragu; again, it was delicious.
After dessert, we were serenaded by a group of comedic folk singers. The highlight for me (and low point for P) was when D was selected to play the part of a guy in a long wig during one of the songs. I have no idea what the song was about, but D really sold the hair. Our evening at the castello ended with a sunset walk back to our coaches, which returned us to the hotel for another good night’s sleep.
(As you can see, all the men in our group had glorious hair).
July 7, 2023
The fourth day of our ABD tour was probably my favorite of the trip. I woke up to a beautiful Tuscan morning – clear sunny skies, rolling green hills, and peaceful quiet. Because we had a later start, I decided to begin my day by visiting the hotel gym.
Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda’s gym is a small, windowless room in the basement that contains a few pieces of ancient cardio equipment. I was the only person there. I stepped onto the elliptical and started to pedal; nothing happened. After an unsuccessful attempt to revive the dead machine, I switched to the treadmill. I stepped up on the machine, started the treadmill, and … nothing. Then, as I was standing on the treadmill fruitlessly adjusting the speed and incline, the belt suddenly lurched to life. I pitched forward but thankfully managed to catch myself. (If I hadn’t, I imagine it would have been weeks – if not months -- before anyone discovered my mangled body).
After the excitement of my workout, I went back upstairs to get ready for the day and wake up my family. While D and P were getting dressed, I got a jump start on breakfast. The highlight of the breakfast buffet at Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda is the pistachio croissants, which receive a coveted 10/10, must eat rating. I would have been happy with just the croissants, but I did round out my meal with fruit, yogurt, and coffee. In case you were wondering, D and P did eventually join me. Neither of them tried the croissants.
From breakfast, we headed directly to the lobby to meet our group for the day’s activities. We boarded the coach to find it adorned with streamers, banners, and balloons. One of our fellow travelers was celebrating her 50th birthday and Gabby and Massi had gone all out with decorations. It made for a festive atmosphere on the bus as we made the short trip to Fattoria Poggio Alloro, a family farm in the rolling hills near the town of San Gimignano.
At the farm, we were greeted by Sarah, one of the farm’s proprietors. Then we were given aprons and Sarah showed us how she makes homemade pasta, effortlessly turning out everything from long, skinny fettucine to cute little bowtie farfalle. After the demonstration, it was our turn to make our own pasta dough. Each of us received the flour, water, and eggs needed to make Sarah’s recipe. As we laboriously turned out hunk after hunk of overworked, dry noodle, we began to worry that we would actually have to eat the fruits of our labor. Fortunately, it turned out that our pasta was for display purposes only. (And it does look almost edible in the photos that Gabby took).
(Despite appearances, this man does not know how to make pasta).
After pasta making, we had a short tour of the farm, led by Sarah and her dog, Cappuccino. We learned a bit about wine making, met some heifers, and saw the various crops the farm produces.
(Above: Sarah; Below: Cappuccino)
Then, it was time for wine tasting. (If you are counting, this was our 3rd wine tasting in 2 days). The wine tasting was held on a patio with glorious views of the countryside with the towers of San Gimignano in the distance. While the adults tasted wine, the guides took the junior adventurers for an olive oil flavoring activity. P was light on details about what the activity entailed, but he did present us with a small bottle of sage and basil flavored olive oil upon his return.
While P was laboring, D and I did the hard work of drinking several glasses of wine before lunch. Then it was time for lunch – and more wine. Our meal included a classic Tuscan bruschetta, which is just grilled bread with olive oil; two types of homemade pasta, fettucine with a red sauce and a saffron vegetable sauce; salad; and a choice of chocolate mousse or panna cotta.
After our meal, there was time to visit the farm’s gift shop before returning to the bus. I purchased a copy of Sarah’s cookbook and suggested that we ship some wine home. D refused, claiming that he “did not drink wine.” (As you may recall, this same man had just participated in 3 wine tastings over a 24-hour period). As I sit typing this without any Tuscan wine, I regret my decision to go along with D’s wine purchase veto.
We spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel and visiting the hotel pool. Dinner that evening was at Castello di Oliveto, a 15th-century manor home. The castello sits at the top of a dirt road that our big coach could not navigate, so we were divided into two smaller vans. As we set out for our destination, we quickly noticed that the van’s air conditioning was blowing hot air. The twisting roads combined with the roasting temperatures were a recipe for motion sickness. Fortunately, however, once made aware of the situation, our driver was able to fix the air conditioning by administering a gentle beating to the van’s dashboard. After the temperature in the van improved, I was able to enjoy the rest of the ride to the castello.
Castello di Oliveto was once a vacation home of the Dei Pucci family, nobility from nearby Florence. Today, it is an event venue. On this evening, our group had the castle and grounds to ourselves for a private tour and meal. We ate in a large banquet hall surrounded by portraits of the castello’s more illustrious visitors; they included popes and kings, but no tour group participants. The food was excellent. And there was more wine, of course. Our meal began with Pappa al Pomodoro, a Tuscan dish made of tomato sauce and old bread. I know that doesn’t sound like much, but it was delicious. The vegetarian entrée was a tagliatelle with a meatless ragu; again, it was delicious.
After dessert, we were serenaded by a group of comedic folk singers. The highlight for me (and low point for P) was when D was selected to play the part of a guy in a long wig during one of the songs. I have no idea what the song was about, but D really sold the hair. Our evening at the castello ended with a sunset walk back to our coaches, which returned us to the hotel for another good night’s sleep.
(As you can see, all the men in our group had glorious hair).
Your Day 4 report brings back memories. The picture of the pasta you show looks similar to what we got, which is still the best I've ever had.
If the Jr Adventurer activity is the same, they pour olive oil from cans into individual small containers and add herbs. They use funnels. They get to keep their small container.
If the Jr Adventurer activity is the same, they pour olive oil from cans into individual small containers and add herbs. They use funnels. They get to keep their small container.
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
My guess is that the activity is the same. My son's report was, "Here, I made this." He's gotten to sullen tween stage, I think.
This trip was our first ABD. My son had no interest in Italy beforehand. But he had a great time on this trip.My son's report was, "Here, I made this." He's gotten to sullen tween stage, I think.
I hope when your son gets older he will realize this was not an ordinary vacation and will be more appreciative.
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
I think he's conflicted because he did enjoy the trip. But he prefers to do outdoors/wildlife focused trips, so he doesn't want to go too far in praising a trip to Europe.
I really liked how this trip had several kids only activities to make the trip more appealing for kids who aren't into history. If anyone else is in the situation of having a spouse who is obsessed with European history and a child who couldn't care less about it (or vice versa), ABD is a good option for humoring the spouse without torturing the child.
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
Trip Report: ABD Day 5
July 8, 2023
Our final day in Tuscany was spent visiting Florence. For me, this was the weakest day in the itinerary. Florence is a city full of must-see attractions and deserves several days at least. Squeezing our time there into a day trip felt a little “check-the-box” to me; I would have preferred to skip Florence in favor of more time in the countryside or visiting another hill town. But we did go to Florence, so let’s talk about it.
Our day started according to a now familiar pattern: wake up, get ready, eat breakfast (more pistachio croissants for me, thanks), and board the coach. During our drive to Florence, the guides entertained us with a surprisingly competitive round of Disney trivia.
As we arrived in Florence and watched the other travelers put on their headphones, I realized we had left our whisper devices back at the hotel. I had a moment of guilt, then reminded myself that I was traveling with two other people who also hadn’t remembered the devices. It was only 33% my fault. We decided that we would just stick close to the guide and make do. That plan lasted about a block before Gabby noticed that we didn’t have our whispers and gave us sets to use for the day.
Our first official activity for the day was a visit to the Accademia to see the David. First, though, I had a very important task to attend to.
Social media humor out of the way, we divided into two smaller groups and entered the Accademia via the entrance for those with reservations. Although it was still quite early, it was already stiflingly hot; not for the first time, I was thankful that someone else was there to point me to the correct entrances at crowded sights.
Inside the Accademia, we made the obligatory pit stop. Then, our guide told us a bit about Michelangelo and the David before sending us off for free time in the museum. Although the David is certainly the showstopper here, there were plenty of other sculptures and paintings to explore. So, after I took a photo of the backside of the David (no one else in my family was even curious enough to take a peek at David's behind!) we had a wander around the galleries.
After visiting the David, we started our whirlwind walking tour of Florence. Due to the heat and the speed of the tour, I retained very little of what we saw. I do know that we saw the Duomo from the outside, visited the Ponte Vecchio, and had some gelato. The tour finished around lunchtime. At that point, there was the option to learn about Florentine leather or the option to begin the on your own time in Florence. Anyone who knows me knows that at lunchtime I eat lunch. So, the leather presentation was summarily rejected in favor of eating at a restaurant that our local guide recommended.
After a tasty meal (I had a stuffed eggplant) and some aperol spritzes that were probably ill advised given the heat, we set out on foot to check off some must dos for P and D. First, we visited the local football fan shop to buy a Firenze soccer jersey for P.
Then, we headed across the Arno River to purchase wine from a wine window. There are nearly 200 buildings in Florence with wine windows: small openings that were used to sell wine without opening the shop. They were apparently quite useful during times of plague. Nowadays, there are still a few businesses that use the wine windows for their original purpose. We learned about the wine windows on social media and D was intrigued. If you enjoy chugging a glass of wine on the sidewalk while getting the stink eye from the restaurant’s security guard, then visiting a wine window is a must do for your Florence trip.
After D downed his wine, we hoofed it back across the river with the idea of stopping for an afternoon snack and rest. We decided to stop at Caffe Gilli, the oldest café in Florence. It’s quite popular with tourists, so we had a bit of a wait to be seated. While we were waiting, I decided to peek inside the café. It was a short walk, but I nonetheless managed to fall and bruise my arm. I saved face by acting like I had tripped on something; the truth is that I had just collapsed, likely due to the heat. Fortunately, by the time I limped back to my family, there was a table ready for us. We ate our fairly lackluster snack and then decided to head back to the meeting point to catch the early coach back to our hotel.
Back at the meeting point, P had the brilliant idea of visiting the leather shop where ABD had done the leather talk. Our goal was not to find the perfect purse, but rather to soak up some free air conditioning. (The shop also has restrooms if you need them). As soon as we entered the shop, one of the clerks noticed P’s Florence jersey and struck up a conversation. We spent a good twenty minutes chatting with him – just what we needed to recuperate from the heat.
Soon enough, it was time to meet Gabby and Massi for the early bus back to our hotel. We had the choice of returning at either 4 or 8 pm. Because of the heat, though, everyone on the tour elected the early option. We made a final stop at a viewpoint for a last look at the city, and then made the drive back to Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda.
At the hotel, we had another dip in the pool and relaxed in our room for a bit. Then, we walked into town for dinner at a local pizzeria. The town of Tavernelle Val Di Pesa looks much like any suburb anywhere, with rows of tract houses and small pockets of parks. The town almost seems out of place given the splendor of the Tuscan setting. We had a cheap and tasty meal at one of the local pizzerias (sadly, I have not retained the name). By the time we were done eating, it had cooled off a bit, which made for a more pleasant walk back to the hotel. Then, it was sadly time to pack because we would be leaving Tuscany the next day.
July 8, 2023
Our final day in Tuscany was spent visiting Florence. For me, this was the weakest day in the itinerary. Florence is a city full of must-see attractions and deserves several days at least. Squeezing our time there into a day trip felt a little “check-the-box” to me; I would have preferred to skip Florence in favor of more time in the countryside or visiting another hill town. But we did go to Florence, so let’s talk about it.
Our day started according to a now familiar pattern: wake up, get ready, eat breakfast (more pistachio croissants for me, thanks), and board the coach. During our drive to Florence, the guides entertained us with a surprisingly competitive round of Disney trivia.
As we arrived in Florence and watched the other travelers put on their headphones, I realized we had left our whisper devices back at the hotel. I had a moment of guilt, then reminded myself that I was traveling with two other people who also hadn’t remembered the devices. It was only 33% my fault. We decided that we would just stick close to the guide and make do. That plan lasted about a block before Gabby noticed that we didn’t have our whispers and gave us sets to use for the day.
Our first official activity for the day was a visit to the Accademia to see the David. First, though, I had a very important task to attend to.
Social media humor out of the way, we divided into two smaller groups and entered the Accademia via the entrance for those with reservations. Although it was still quite early, it was already stiflingly hot; not for the first time, I was thankful that someone else was there to point me to the correct entrances at crowded sights.
Inside the Accademia, we made the obligatory pit stop. Then, our guide told us a bit about Michelangelo and the David before sending us off for free time in the museum. Although the David is certainly the showstopper here, there were plenty of other sculptures and paintings to explore. So, after I took a photo of the backside of the David (no one else in my family was even curious enough to take a peek at David's behind!) we had a wander around the galleries.
After visiting the David, we started our whirlwind walking tour of Florence. Due to the heat and the speed of the tour, I retained very little of what we saw. I do know that we saw the Duomo from the outside, visited the Ponte Vecchio, and had some gelato. The tour finished around lunchtime. At that point, there was the option to learn about Florentine leather or the option to begin the on your own time in Florence. Anyone who knows me knows that at lunchtime I eat lunch. So, the leather presentation was summarily rejected in favor of eating at a restaurant that our local guide recommended.
After a tasty meal (I had a stuffed eggplant) and some aperol spritzes that were probably ill advised given the heat, we set out on foot to check off some must dos for P and D. First, we visited the local football fan shop to buy a Firenze soccer jersey for P.
Then, we headed across the Arno River to purchase wine from a wine window. There are nearly 200 buildings in Florence with wine windows: small openings that were used to sell wine without opening the shop. They were apparently quite useful during times of plague. Nowadays, there are still a few businesses that use the wine windows for their original purpose. We learned about the wine windows on social media and D was intrigued. If you enjoy chugging a glass of wine on the sidewalk while getting the stink eye from the restaurant’s security guard, then visiting a wine window is a must do for your Florence trip.
After D downed his wine, we hoofed it back across the river with the idea of stopping for an afternoon snack and rest. We decided to stop at Caffe Gilli, the oldest café in Florence. It’s quite popular with tourists, so we had a bit of a wait to be seated. While we were waiting, I decided to peek inside the café. It was a short walk, but I nonetheless managed to fall and bruise my arm. I saved face by acting like I had tripped on something; the truth is that I had just collapsed, likely due to the heat. Fortunately, by the time I limped back to my family, there was a table ready for us. We ate our fairly lackluster snack and then decided to head back to the meeting point to catch the early coach back to our hotel.
Back at the meeting point, P had the brilliant idea of visiting the leather shop where ABD had done the leather talk. Our goal was not to find the perfect purse, but rather to soak up some free air conditioning. (The shop also has restrooms if you need them). As soon as we entered the shop, one of the clerks noticed P’s Florence jersey and struck up a conversation. We spent a good twenty minutes chatting with him – just what we needed to recuperate from the heat.
Soon enough, it was time to meet Gabby and Massi for the early bus back to our hotel. We had the choice of returning at either 4 or 8 pm. Because of the heat, though, everyone on the tour elected the early option. We made a final stop at a viewpoint for a last look at the city, and then made the drive back to Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda.
At the hotel, we had another dip in the pool and relaxed in our room for a bit. Then, we walked into town for dinner at a local pizzeria. The town of Tavernelle Val Di Pesa looks much like any suburb anywhere, with rows of tract houses and small pockets of parks. The town almost seems out of place given the splendor of the Tuscan setting. We had a cheap and tasty meal at one of the local pizzerias (sadly, I have not retained the name). By the time we were done eating, it had cooled off a bit, which made for a more pleasant walk back to the hotel. Then, it was sadly time to pack because we would be leaving Tuscany the next day.
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For me the "must see" Florence attraction was Galileo's thumb. Yes, it's his actual thumb preserved in a jar in the Science Museum. It took a while before I summoned the courage to ask such a silly question of where it was located! The docent directed me to the right room without any emotion.
-Paul
-Paul
Jess_S
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
That's amazing. And exactly why a half a day in Florence isn't enough.Glad you kept posting! I wanted to know what was the difference between the itineraries for Florence! We were just on the same tour but in December (Christmas to New Years) -- so we had 3 nights in Florence. Comparing what you posted vs. what we had:
We had Orvieto, then drove onward to our first night at Hotel Brunelleschi, dinner at the the hotel (jr. adventures had a night of games after dinner).
2nd day - we had our walking tour around Florence, leather store, lunch on our own then bus to Pisa. That night was on our own in Florence.
3rd day - bus to Sara's Farm, and then bus back to Florence that got us back around 4:30pm (some of us got tickets to the Uffizi with time entry for 4:30 and 4:45pm). Group rooftop dinner at a different hotel.
So the two tours in December, got more time in Florence but no direct time in Tuscany countryside outside of the farm visit (we didn't get the Castello).
(our Rome visit is matching up though the order was different for us)
We had Orvieto, then drove onward to our first night at Hotel Brunelleschi, dinner at the the hotel (jr. adventures had a night of games after dinner).
2nd day - we had our walking tour around Florence, leather store, lunch on our own then bus to Pisa. That night was on our own in Florence.
3rd day - bus to Sara's Farm, and then bus back to Florence that got us back around 4:30pm (some of us got tickets to the Uffizi with time entry for 4:30 and 4:45pm). Group rooftop dinner at a different hotel.
So the two tours in December, got more time in Florence but no direct time in Tuscany countryside outside of the farm visit (we didn't get the Castello).
(our Rome visit is matching up though the order was different for us)
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