Expert campers I need your help regarding repairs!

[serenitygr]

Last night we took our fifth wheel out of storage and put the slide outs out so we could “unwinterize” it. Imagine my horror when we looked under the slide outs and one of them is starting to rot on the bottom. I’m not sure what the correct term is, but it’s the cardboard like stuff that’s the whole bottom of the slide out. There’s actually a small rotted area and you can feel the wood is rotting right there as well.

A little background: this is a five year old Columbus Palomino 5th wheel. Four slide outs. Always cared for immaculately- stored inside 7-8 months a year. We’ve camped in it a grand total of three times. We condition the roof and also check carefully for any areas that could leak- never had an issue. But obviously something has gone wrong that has escaped our attention.

This was going to be my retirement home someday so I’m heartbroken. Hoping to get some advice from those if you more experienced. Is this fixable, and if so how? Or should I just say goodbye to it after our trip this fall and sell it next spring?

 

[Stratman50th]

As you noted, sounds like you have a leak someplace. Probably the slide box itself and not the roof. Sadly, water has a way of getting in anyplace. Many times it starts in one area but finds its way somewhere you don't notice. Check slide seals, wall corners. Check especially around windows. Water can also run down the sides and curve under the bottom lip ending up settling underneath. So that's kind of the basic do it yourself search.
Now what to do. Rot normally doesn't get better by itself and needs to be repaired. Can you or someone skilled repair a floor? (After finding and sealing the leak). Sure, maybe. You may honestly be looking at the entire box being removed in order to repair or even rebuild.
Sorry you probably weren't looking to hear that but with the info provided that's how I see it.

 

[serenitygr]

As you noted, sounds like you have a leak someplace. Probably the slide box itself and not the roof. Sadly, water has a way of getting in anyplace. Many times it starts in one area but finds its way somewhere you don't notice. Check slide seals, wall corners. Check especially around windows. Water can also run down the sides and curve under the bottom lip ending up settling underneath. So that's kind of the basic do it yourself search.
Now what to do. Rot normally doesn't get better by itself and needs to be repaired. Can you or someone skilled repair a floor? (After finding and sealing the leak). Sure, maybe. You may honestly be looking at the entire box being removed in order to repair or even rebuild.
Sorry you probably weren't looking to hear that but with the info provided that's how I see it.

I appreciate any and all advice! My husband actually said the same thing about taking everything apart ( I can’t even imagine). He actually helped his brother do this but that was an older camper and somehow this just feels so much worse . I’m just concerned if we ourselves end up having to do this on all our slides, will it actually damage the camper even more. ( will the slides still function like they should, etc…)Are there professional places that do this kind of work?

 

[Teamubr]

My former, loved, 5th wheel had the same problem on the bedroom slide. The last year we had it, both rear corners up to the roof started doing the same thing.

I took the trailer back to the factory in Indiana and they fixed the bedroom slide and explained the cause. My 5er was a "mid-level" trailer. Nice, but not top of the line, similar to your Palamino. The guy at the factory showed me how the walls and the floor meet on the slides. There should be a layer of sealant where the wall and floor meet. Trim is applied over the sealed joint to make it look nice and they caulk the trim. To save money, they started using double sided tape on the joint instead of a sealant. The tape lasts for a while, but eventually doesn't seal well. That leaves the caulk and trim on the outside as the only protection from water getting in. Caulk only lasts a few years before it starts to age and pin holes will form. That lets water in and the wood on the walls and floor, often particle board or OSB, start getting wet and absorbing the water like a wick. They don't do well getting wet and start to come apart. At that point, it is a matter of time. Due to the trim and fabric covering the wood and joint, you don't see anything until you have soft spots.

My trailer was over 3 years old when I found the bedroom slide floor. It was way out of warranty, but the factory didn't charge anything to fix it. I fixed the rear corners. Same problem. Double sided tabe with no real "seal" on the joints.

That was one of the reasons I sold the 5er. We loved the layout and most everything about it, but it was just waiting until the next water intrusion popped up. My first 5er was 13 years old when we sold it and never had any water problems.

I would contact the factory service department and see what they say. A dealer will charge, since that's how they stay in business. Taking a slide out to replace the floor takes a lift and some knowledge. I fixed the rear corners on mine since I knew what I would find. The outer skin was perfect. I bought inside wall panels for the rear wall from the factory. Cut to fit, two pieces, matched exactly, less than $100 including shipping.

j

 

[serenitygr]

My former, loved, 5th wheel had the same problem on the bedroom slide. The last year we had it, both rear corners up to the roof started doing the same thing.

I took the trailer back to the factory in Indiana and they fixed the bedroom slide and explained the cause. My 5er was a "mid-level" trailer. Nice, but not top of the line, similar to your Palamino. The guy at the factory showed me how the walls and the floor meet on the slides. There should be a layer of sealant where the wall and floor meet. Trim is applied over the sealed joint to make it look nice and they caulk the trim. To save money, they started using double sided tape on the joint instead of a sealant. The tape lasts for a while, but eventually doesn't seal well. That leaves the caulk and trim on the outside as the only protection from water getting in. Caulk only lasts a few years before it starts to age and pin holes will form. That lets water in and the wood on the walls and floor, often particle board or OSB, start getting wet and absorbing the water like a wick. They don't do well getting wet and start to come apart. At that point, it is a matter of time. Due to the trim and fabric covering the wood and joint, you don't see anything until you have soft spots.

My trailer was over 3 years old when I found the bedroom slide floor. It was way out of warranty, but the factory didn't charge anything to fix it. I fixed the rear corners. Same problem. Double sided tabe with no real "seal" on the joints.

That was one of the reasons I sold the 5er. We loved the layout and most everything about it, but it was just waiting until the next water intrusion popped up. My first 5er was 13 years old when we sold it and never had any water problems.

I would contact the factory service department and see what they say. A dealer will charge, since that's how they stay in business. Taking a silde out ot replace the floor takes a lift and some knowledge. I fixed the rear corners on mine since I knew what I would find. The outer skin was perfect. I bought inside wall panels for the rear wall from the factory. Cut to fit, two pieces, matched exactly, less than $100 including shipping.

j

Thank you so much for all this advice- very helpful!!

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

My former, loved, 5th wheel had the same problem on the bedroom slide. The last year we had it, both rear corners up to the roof started doing the same thing.

I took the trailer back to the factory in Indiana and they fixed the bedroom slide and explained the cause. My 5er was a "mid-level" trailer. Nice, but not top of the line, similar to your Palamino. The guy at the factory showed me how the walls and the floor meet on the slides. There should be a layer of sealant where the wall and floor meet. Trim is applied over the sealed joint to make it look nice and they caulk the trim. To save money, they started using double sided tape on the joint instead of a sealant. The tape lasts for a while, but eventually doesn't seal well. That leaves the caulk and trim on the outside as the only protection from water getting in. Caulk only lasts a few years before it starts to age and pin holes will form. That lets water in and the wood on the walls and floor, often particle board or OSB, start getting wet and absorbing the water like a wick. They don't do well getting wet and start to come apart. At that point, it is a matter of time. Due to the trim and fabric covering the wood and joint, you don't see anything until you have soft spots.

My trailer was over 3 years old when I found the bedroom slide floor. It was way out of warranty, but the factory didn't charge anything to fix it. I fixed the rear corners. Same problem. Double sided tabe with no real "seal" on the joints.

That was one of the reasons I sold the 5er. We loved the layout and most everything about it, but it was just waiting until the next water intrusion popped up. My first 5er was 13 years old when we sold it and never had any water problems.

I would contact the factory service department and see what they say. A dealer will charge, since that's how they stay in business. Taking a slide out to replace the floor takes a lift and some knowledge. I fixed the rear corners on mine since I knew what I would find. The outer skin was perfect. I bought inside wall panels for the rear wall from the factory. Cut to fit, two pieces, matched exactly, less than $100 including shipping.

j

We had a very similar experience with an Open range we bought in 2012. It was only about 2 1/2 yrs old when we discovered 2 of the 3 slides had significant damage on the floors for the exact same reason that yours failed. Fortunately we are less than 200 miles from Shipshewana IN and we were able to get the slide floors replaced at no cost. We ended up taking this trailer to the service center twice for issues.

I also think the factory service center is the best bet. You may be able to get it towed there for a reasonable price as a backhaul for a transporter, getting it home would be another issue though.
I would reach out to the manufacturer and see what they will do, have your VIN and some pics ready to send.

Best of luck.

 

[serenitygr]

Just a quick update…. We brought the camper to a local friend who also is an rv repairman. He looked it over and feels we’ve caught this early enough to hopefully prevent more damage.
Right now there is one spot about 2” by 2” under the bedroom slide out that the cardboard type bottom is rotted and the wood feels a bit soft there. All other slide outs look good.

Upon looking it over- it’s very obvious along the bottom edges where the seams are starting to come open- apparently because whatever it was originally sealed with is now wearing out. He feels we should just silicone everything really well- every single place there is a seam even if they seem ok- and we should be fine. So for now we’ve got her parked back inside and ready to be worked on!

I’m keeping my fingers crossed- he agreed there is no way we could individually try to take these slides out and redo the floor- it would have to go to the manufacturer. And I think it would be cost prohibitive to do that….

Any suggestions on the best silicone out there to use? Also what does everyone recommend to put on our rubber seals around the slides to keep them from drying out?

 

[Teamubr]

Any suggestions on the best silicone out there to use? Also what does everyone recommend to put on our rubber seals around the slides to keep them from drying out?

I used industrial wood glue to bond the walls back together on my rear corners and a 3M sealant (like Dicor except something else. I don't remember exactly what) to completely cover the joint. Once that dried, I covered that with butyl tape and put the corner trim back on. My corner trim was screwed on and didn't have any caulk originally, just a thin, poorly attached strip of butyl tape.

Here is what I use on my slide seals. Not sure if it is the best, but I have never had a seal problem.



j

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

Just a quick update…. We brought the camper to a local friend who also is an rv repairman. He looked it over and feels we’ve caught this early enough to hopefully prevent more damage.
Right now there is one spot about 2” by 2” under the bedroom slide out that the cardboard type bottom is rotted and the wood feels a bit soft there. All other slide outs look good.

Upon looking it over- it’s very obvious along the bottom edges where the seams are starting to come open- apparently because whatever it was originally sealed with is now wearing out. He feels we should just silicone everything really well- every single place there is a seam even if they seem ok- and we should be fine. So for now we’ve got her parked back inside and ready to be worked on!

I’m keeping my fingers crossed- he agreed there is no way we could individually try to take these slides out and redo the floor- it would have to go to the manufacturer. And I think it would be cost prohibitive to do that….

Any suggestions on the best silicone out there to use? Also what does everyone recommend to put on our rubber seals around the slides to keep them from drying out?

I asked the Grand design techs at last years national rally about what silicone to use and the reply I got was always "pure silicone" Since you have a lot of places to do, the caulk gun size tube would be best and those are available at any home center or hardware. I would also suggest removing any screws on the sides of your slides and putting a dab of silicone on them and then reinstalling them. The Open range I mentioned had at least a third of the exterior screws with evidence of water on them (corroded slightly) so I know they were wicking water into the panels. One of the first things I do with any new trailer no matter what the brand is to remove screws in areas that are water prone and seal them with silicone. Also look at the area at the bottom of the slide sides at the floor joint. I have seen where a light rain will allow water through surface tension to flow onto the horizontal parts of the floor. If theres an open joint there it will allow water to get into the end grain of the flooring.