Trip Report - Patagonia & Antarctica New Years 2023

Day 3 PS - I forgot to include this at the end of my Day 3 posts. It is such a fun pic, I'll share here as a PS. As we walked back to the ship from walking around Ushuaia, there was this dog wandering the pier. When he got to the gangway for our ship, he sat & looked longingly, like he wanted to board. Unfortunately for him, he had no passport & no key card, so he could not join us.


Day 3 Dog .jpg
 
Day 4 – Shake or Lake

It is the first day of our crossing of the Drake Lake. I noticed a few more Scopolamine patches on folks last night, heading into the Drake today. I also never knew there were so many varieties of penguin pajamas! Did folks already have them, or where they purchased just for this trip? I don’t really know…

Ponant was thoughtfully prepared for Drake Shake – these showed up on the stairway railings and in some of the hallways overnight, if needed.

Day 4 Drake bags.jpg


We have lots of things on the program for today, so let’s get started.

The morning started with Early Bird bird watching, with a couple of the naturalist guides. The Drake is an excellent place for finding many different sea birds, and quite a few were spotted. The group gathered at the back of the ship, on the deck we’d be using to exit the ship during our activities.

Day 4 sea birds 3.jpg

Day 4 sea birds 2.jpg

Next up – a cruise overview and introduction to the expedition team. This was with both Captain Fab (Fabian Roche, who everyone called Captain Fab) and Expedition Leader John Frick. Our sailing was John’s 130th visit to Antarctica! John is both very experienced and very knowledgeable.

Day 4 Expedition Team.jpg

The Captain and John will work very closely together throughout our time in Antarctica, to determine where we can safely go and what we’ll be able to do once we get there – either landings or zodiac cruises. John and his team were absolutely wonderful throughout our cruise!! So hard working, to be sure we could do as much as possible during our time in Antarctica. The daily process will be –

--Before the evening briefing on the next day’s program, John & Captain Fab will determine what tomorrow will be. This is always with caveats, because circumstances can change overnight.

--After arriving at our first destination in the morning, the expedition team will offload the zodiacs and go check out the planned landing site – can we land, where is it safe to go, building steps in the ice & snow or paths as needed so we can more easily get up the hills, putting up the red flags which were our boundary markers of where to go and not go.

--Come back and start taking groups of people out, 10 to a zodiac, based on color groupings (more on those in a bit).

--Once everyone is finished with this activity, get everyone back on board, load up the zodiacs & equipment, and over lunch time cruise on to the afternoon location. A couple of times, our afternoon location was close enough that the team motored the zodiacs over.

--Repeat the morning activities of scoping out the landing site, making it safe, getting everyone over & back, and clean up & load up equipment and zodiacs at the end of the afternoon.

With each landing, they would also offload some survival boxes of food, blankets, etc, in the very remote chance a group cannot make it back to the ship due to an unexpected weather situation.

The expedition team was very busy every day! We could not have had this wonderful trip without them.

The color groupings – by dinner time yesterday, those in separate cabins who wanted to be sure to be together on landings needed to sign up at Reception. The Ponant team then divided everyone into four color groupings of approx. 40 per group – Green, Yellow, Blue, Red. Our activity times for the next seven days will be determined by our assigned color group. This was to help manage numbers, and also to be sure we kept below the IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) mandated limits of no more than 100 people on the continent at any one time. We’d alternate each day – ie day 1, yellow first then green in one group off the ship; blue & then red in the second group, for both morning and afternoon activities. Next Day, Blue & Red would go out first, followed by Yellow & Green. They posted the lists after dinner, so we’d be ready with our assigned color group starting today.

Next was Boots Camp, where we picked up our loaner waterproof boots. Following this was Parka distribution. While we were asked to provide a parka size to AbD prior to the trip, that was only to give Ponant an idea of how many of each size might be needed. They had one of each size available to try on, so we could get the correct size.

After lunch, there was a Mandatory Expedition Briefing, if you wanted to go ashore, you had to attend. We had to show our room keys and sign in to confirm attendance.

There was an afternoon activity to decorate your Ponant water bottles with stickers, if you wished to do so.

For those who’d pre-booked the optional Kayaking, there was the first of a couple of briefings with the naturalists who’d be leading those outings.

Are you curious about how our Drake Crossing is going? Well, we have the Lake of all Lakes, more like a pond than a lake. This crossing has been so smooth all day, the ocean has been like glass the entire way thus far. Those patches were not really needed, and no one is complaining. The ocean that may look a little rough in some of the bird pictures above? That is engine wake as those were taken off the back of the ship.

Drake at 0730a.m.

Day 4 Drake 0730b.jpg

Drake at 5PM

Day 4 Drake 1700.jpg

Drake at 8PM

Day 4 Drake 2000.jpg

In our evening briefing, John shares a wonderful surprise – because our crossing is going so smoothly and quickly (we will be across the drake in just a day & a half), we will be able to make our first landing tomorrow afternoon! Hooray – lots of cheers from the group! We are so excited about this news!!

After dinner, there was a PJ Parka party. As part of that, it was also Decorate your Parka time. Abd Guide Byron had spent a lot of time creating custom iron-on decals for our parkas. He had six designs to choose from; we could select & they had a couple of irons set up right there in the lounge to iron them on for us. Later on in the cruise, since he had extras, we could go back & get another if we wanted.

Day 4 Parka 3.jpg

Day 4 Parka 2.jpg


He also did custom AbD Guide Name Tag iron-ons for each of the guides, so they’d still look ‘official’ when their parkas were zipped up. So nice of him to do that for us!

Day 4 Parka 1.jpg


Time to get to bed – we have a busy morning tomorrow to get ready for our first landing.
 
Day 4.5 – Food info

Posting this separate, because there’s some important info I don’t want to be missed.

First, the onboard culinary team had a lot of fun with putting not so hidden Mickey’s in the dessert buffet each evening. Here are a few examples –

Day 4.5 food .jpg

Day 4.5 Food 2.jpg

Day 4.5 Food 3.jpg

Day 4.5 Food.jpg


Next – There are two dining rooms on board, a buffet on Deck 6 and a dining room with servers & a menu on Deck 2. Both are open for each meal, at slightly different times; check the Daily program for hours. The main entrée options are the same in both places. The buffet might have a few more dessert options, while the dining room has some fancier dessert options. We found the dining room to be quieter most times, and easier to get a table as it was never full. In the buffet, there are a more larger tables (6-8 seats) and only a few tables that seat 4. There also wasn’t as much indoor seating up there, because there is also outdoor seating not really used much on our cruise. So it got crowded and noisy in the buffet.

And, now, the important item. In the Daily Program on our first Drake day, was a little item on the back, easily missed if you didn’t read the entire program – you could sign up to have dinner with some of the naturalists. There was one table per night, for the next eight nights, with two naturalists and four guests per table. That was it – only 32 guests would be able to do this. Two naturalists are pre-assigned to the dinner each night. Some naturalists have one dinner night, while others have two; the naturalists mix it up so the same two are not paired up if they’re participating a second evening.

Day 4.5 program dinner info.jpg


How do you know who you’d want to eat with? On the main reception/lounge level deck, between the elevators and the lounge, is a bulletin board. It’s got pictures and biographical info (in French and English) for each of the naturalists.

Day 4 - Naturalist board.jpg

Here are a couple of example bios close up, so you can see what info is on them.

Day 4.5 bio 1.jpg

Day 4.5 bio 2.jpg


I took pictures of each bio the night before, when we got the Daily Program after our Sail Away party. We looked them over, make a couple of choices, then went to Reception around dinner the next night to sign up & found some spots already taken. The two kayak guides were the first to book up completely. I’d start checking with reception in the afternoon (the sign-up sheets were not out in the morning), to have a better chance for your first or second guide choice. There were several disappointed folks who waited a day or two to try to sign up & by then all spots were filled.

We were able to get with our first guide choice. This was a really fun activity, and we enjoyed getting to know a couple of the guides a little better. They’d recognize us as the week progressed, & we’d have a little chat each time we later saw them.
 
So glad you had the Drake Lake and such a smooth crossing! The Drake Passage is one reason I will probably never do this trip!

Sayhello
 


So happy to see your trip report! We’re on the Feb 12 trip and your report and @starwarsdad Dec trip report have been great to read as we get ready (still trying to figure out how to pack everything — we definitely won’t be carry-on only!). Love the detailed info you’ve provided so far, and looking forward to hearing about your expeditions.

I can’t believe in only a couple of weeks, I’ll be discovering Argentina and Antarctica myself!
 
Let’s pause a moment to talk internet service on the ship. It is available and it is free. But, it is not the fastest or most reliable connection, since the ship is sailing in latitudes with limited satellite range. I could get and receive calls if I had my iPhone set up for Wi-Fi calling. I could open documents attached to emails. However, texts or emails with videos or higher-resolution pictures would come through but I couldn't open/download the pictures or videos. I could not send out higher resolution pictures or videos. A couple of people mentioned they could do face-time calls but the picture quality was grainy.

I don’t know how this works on an android phone, but on iPhone when emailing a photo, a message comes up with an option about scaling the photo to a lower resolution. If I selected the lowest possible resolution, I could email one photo at a time & it would get through.

When you get into your cabin, there will be a folder with that first night’s Daily Program. Also inside that folder is a paper with the internet sign-on ID & password for your cabin. There’s either one per person, or one per adult – I’m not too sure here. The sign-on ID can only be used on one device at a time. When I was later at the reception desk, I overheard a parent asking about codes for her kids & their phones.

That’s when I learned, you can get extra logins for your cabin. I was able to get another, so I had one for my phone and one for my iPad. The lady got three extra codes for her kids. Towards the end of the sailing, I started getting an error message for one of my codes that it had reached its maximum number of logins. I headed to reception, and they gave me another.

So…if you need more internet logins for your cabin(s), head to Reception on Deck 3 where you can get them.
We were on shortly after you (not ABD) and there was a code for each of us in the initial folder. We also got another one to use with our computer instead of phones but didn't use it. I was able to facetime with my daughter (android) and my husband checked in with his HAM radio club (IPhone) during the trip. There were times where internet was non-existent but for free I can't complain.
 
So happy to see your trip report! We’re on the Feb 12 trip and your report and @starwarsdad Dec trip report have been great to read as we get ready (still trying to figure out how to pack everything — we definitely won’t be carry-on only!). Love the detailed info you’ve provided so far, and looking forward to hearing about your expeditions.

I can’t believe in only a couple of weeks, I’ll be discovering Argentina and Antarctica myself!
Again - I wasn't on ABD but on the same ship - same Journey and I will tell you I packed way to much. I pretty much wore the same stuff for two weeks without having to wash (and no it didn't stink) There was just plenty of time to air dry between uses and that saved my bacon. I think, if (when) I do it again I could do it with just a carry on.
 


And not to Hijack the thread but I eagerly read the earlier trip report to get some ideas! The scenery was beyond amazing. We had a landing and a float by every day. The landings were very physical and the floats could be chilly but worth every minute. We had the Drake Lake going out (3-5 foot swells) and the Drake Shake coming back (25 Foot Swells). Know that they bake all the bread on the ship every day.

I had a chocolate croissant every single morning for breakfast. The only thing they seemed to run out of (and the ship is stocked each time it comes back to Ushuaia) was syrup. I don't know how table seating for ABD goes but if you can get/have Nick as your waiter you will be incredibly pleased with your service. He was amazing.

Again not to hijack the thread. I was on the same ship from 1/9/2023 to 1/20/2023. BTW - the captain has an amazing sense of humor (at least the one that captained our ship). Any general questions I can answer let me know. Even though it wasn't ABD (and I was schedule for an ABD trip that was canceled due to COVID) let me know
 
Day 5 – Go With The Floe

It’s Landing day !! The first time we will actually set foot on land in Antarctica! There’s an electricity in the air this morning as we have breakfast, attend briefings, get our things vacuumed, and wait impatiently for 1:30 PM…our expected arrival time at our first destination.

We know we are getting close, for we have our first sightings of both land and ice burgs. Capt Fab alerted us to the ice burg. Who’d have thought a chunk of ice in the ocean would be so exciting?

First land sighting -

Day 5 first land.jpg

Day 5 land 1.jpg

First ice burg !

Day 5 ice burg.jpg


There is another Early Bird bird watching session this morning. Amazing to think of these birds, so far from land.

After breakfast, there is mandatory Bio-Decontamination, otherwise known a vacuum your stuff. We are to bring all clothing items that we want to take with us off the ship; new items never worn are exempt. This would be sweaters, pants, hats, etc – things that have been used prior to this trip. We cannot take any chances on bringing contaminants into Antarctica. The expedition guides are set up in the lounge with special vacuums to suction out anything that might be hiding.

Those on the kayaking outings have another meeting, to get their kayak clothing.

We then have a late morning briefing on the afternoon landing activities, since this will be our first one.

Our destination for today – the South Shetland Islands, specifically Telefon Bay and Deception Island. We will pass through an opening called Neptune’s Bellows to get to the caldera and our landing area. The area has a black sand beach, and is still considered an active volcano.

The briefing is followed by an informative session, “Penguins, gentlemen of the South Pole” by Naturalist Guide Tom, aka The Penguin Guy. Tom loves penguins; he did his Masters Thesis at Cambridge, on Chinstrap Penguins. This was a great session for all of us Penguin Fans.

Tom explained there are 10 number of penguin species in Antarctica, and we will be seeing three of them. Penguins can see, hear, and smell, and see colors better than people do. Tom did many of our briefings, had a great sense of humor, and ended up being one of my favorite Naturalists during this trip.

Day 5 Tom PPT 1.jpg

Day 5 Tom PPT 2.jpg


Continues in next post -
 
Day 5 continued –

Afternoon -

@starwarsdad made a passing mention in his report, about wishing he had brought an extra pair of thick socks, because we should not wear our boots walking around the ship. The boots are always wet when we get back, so walking to the cabins, the bottoms of socks can get wet. Some folks will wear slippers to the lounge & leave them there during the outing; this does not prevent wet socks because you still have to get from the outside boot removal area back into the lounge in your socks.

I thought of a great solution that worked well for me – bring along some of those cheap free slippers you sometimes get in hotel rooms or on airplanes. They easily fit into the inside pocket of my parka. After removing my boots, I’d slip these on to walk back to my cabin. No wet socks!

We pass through Neptune’s Bellows, and this is the only time we will see another large ship the entire time we are in Antarctica. It is another Ponant ship, which left Ushuaia the day before we did. They explored this area in the morning, and we will do so this afternoon. That is one of the wonderful things about Antarctica – with the IAATO limits on number of people ashore, there is a real feeling of isolation, in a good way, because the areas are not overrun with multiple cruise ships and people.

Neptune's Bellows -

Day 5 Bellows.jpg

Day 5 caldera opening.jpg

We have arrived at Telefon Bay in the Deception Islands. It’s 41 degrees, and a light snow starts to fall. We should see some chinstrap penguins for sure – naturalist Tom will be happy!

The zodiacs are being lowered into the water. The anticipation levels on board are rising…excitement in the air….

Day 5 zodiacs.jpg

Day 5 zodiacs 2.jpg

And finally, dressed in all of our layers, people are heading to the lounge as our groups are called to queue up for the zodiacs.

Day 5 zodiac ship.jpg

Land Ho – we’ve arrived on Antarctia ! Not what I expected, this is a volcanic island with more rock than snow and ice. We see a few Chinstrap penguins on the beach at our landing site, there to welcome us. Note the tiny zodiac next to the ship.

IMG_1299.jpg

Day 5 chinstraps.jpg

As each group lands, the expedition leader John will give us a brief overview of the parameters for that site. This will be a standard procedure with each landing. The expedition guides are waiting for us!

Day 5 Exp Guides.jpg

This pic of John is from later in the cruise, as there was not that much ice at this landing.

Day 5 John.jpg


Before we scatter across the landing site, the guides gather us as a group for a photo since this is our first stop.

Day 5 Group land.jpg


Continued in the next post -
 
Day 5 continued -

Some will make the longer hike up to the rim of the caldera and across the hill; others will go to the half-way point. In matching orange parkas, required on all expeditions off ship, they look like ants going up the hill. The parkas are color-coded – Orange for guests, Yellow for the Expedition guide team, and Blue for Ponant staff such as the photographers and the medical staff. For each landing, one of the medical staff also goes ashore with a backpack of supplies, just in case someone needs assistance. Each group gets approx. an hour or so on land or zodiac each time we go off ship.

Day 5 ants.jpg

The view from the top, at the half-way point -

Day 5 view half point.jpg

Speaking of the Ponant photographers, they will do whatever it takes to get their great photos – here’s photographer Olivier on Tom’s (the Penguin guy) shoulders to get our large Group picture.


Day 5 photographer.jpg

They offer a few different photo options for sale – individual pictures in various sizes, a movie about an hour long, and a Best Of photos collection. The Best Of collection promises 300+ photos; for our cruise, it was 463 photos. They are all photos taken during our cruise; none are stock photos or photos of individual guests. And, no drones are used. Their photos are amazingly beautiful; the Best Of is definitely worth the price (75 euros) in my opinion.

After our evening briefing and dinner, the Guides hosted a We Survived the Drake Passage party. They had fun stickers available to commemorate our achievement. If you don’t make the party, look for some leftover stickers on the table as you enter the lounge the next morning; I saw a few there when I went up for breakfast.


Day 5 Drake Survival.jpg


A parting shot, view from my balcony at 0930pm, as we sailed along to our morning destination. The views never get old!

Day 5 departing view.jpg


Next up for tomorrow – Neko Harbour and Danco Island
 
@Mathmagicland —Thanks for the great trip report. I’m getting super excited about trying to do this ABD in 2025. It has been a bucket list item of mine for a long time. I hope ABD is still doing it then.

Did I understand you correctly that the parkas are yours to take home? I figured they would just launder and reuse them. I can’t imagine that the parka is an easy item to pack for the trip home.
 
@Mathmagicland —Thanks for the great trip report. I’m getting super excited about trying to do this ABD in 2025. It has been a bucket list item of mine for a long time. I hope ABD is still doing it then.

Did I understand you correctly that the parkas are yours to take home? I figured they would just launder and reuse them. I can’t imagine that the parka is an easy item to pack for the trip home.
Glad you are enjoying it! I hope you will make it there someday!

Yes, the parkas were ours to take home. We did see quite a few at the airport on the way back. My friends & I were able to get them in our suitcases using those compression bags that I found on Amazon, the link I posted on the prior page. Those bags took the parka down to about an inch in thickness. It would not have easily fit without those.
 
Just wanted to pop-on (while I still have reliable WiFi, lol) that we made it to Buenos Aires and are all checked in and are covid-clear, so now are set for our super-early (eaaaarly) morning departure to Ushuaia! I did last-minute throw-in some of the compression sacks like you suggested above. While my suitcase has some wiggle room right now, I’m not sure it’s enough to bring back a fluffy parka. Thanks for the tip!

Our check-in person at the AbD hospitality desk was Byron, and he was wonderful! My mum has some mobility issues and we were worried if she would have many chances to actually get on the “ice” so to speak, but after talking with him, we’re both excited for what she may be able experience — a lot more than she’d planned, it sounds like! While I know we chose this specific AbD instead of going on our own because we trust Disney to take care of us, it was nice to have that reassurance.

Byron also said (fingers crossed) that the weather report looks good for a Drake Lake — which would be ideal because we’ll be crossing on Mum’s birthday!
 
Just wanted to pop-on (while I still have reliable WiFi, lol) that we made it to Buenos Aires and are all checked in and are covid-clear, so now are set for our super-early (eaaaarly) morning departure to Ushuaia! I did last-minute throw-in some of the compression sacks like you suggested above. While my suitcase has some wiggle room right now, I’m not sure it’s enough to bring back a fluffy parka. Thanks for the tip!

Our check-in person at the AbD hospitality desk was Byron, and he was wonderful! My mum has some mobility issues and we were worried if she would have many chances to actually get on the “ice” so to speak, but after talking with him, we’re both excited for what she may be able experience — a lot more than she’d planned, it sounds like! While I know we chose this specific AbD instead of going on our own because we trust Disney to take care of us, it was nice to have that reassurance.

Byron also said (fingers crossed) that the weather report looks good for a Drake Lake — which would be ideal because we’ll be crossing on Mum’s birthday!
Enjoy ! Byron is wonderful!!
 
Just wanted to pop-on (while I still have reliable WiFi, lol) that we made it to Buenos Aires and are all checked in and are covid-clear, so now are set for our super-early (eaaaarly) morning departure to Ushuaia! I did last-minute throw-in some of the compression sacks like you suggested above. While my suitcase has some wiggle room right now, I’m not sure it’s enough to bring back a fluffy parka. Thanks for the tip!

Our check-in person at the AbD hospitality desk was Byron, and he was wonderful! My mum has some mobility issues and we were worried if she would have many chances to actually get on the “ice” so to speak, but after talking with him, we’re both excited for what she may be able experience — a lot more than she’d planned, it sounds like! While I know we chose this specific AbD instead of going on our own because we trust Disney to take care of us, it was nice to have that reassurance.

Byron also said (fingers crossed) that the weather report looks good for a Drake Lake — which would be ideal because we’ll be crossing on Mum’s birthday!
Looks like you also have Tiffany as one of your Adventure Guides! Another wonderful Guide!

Sayhello
 
Looks like a great trip. We did a land trip in Patagonia going to Chile and Argentina. The furthest south we went was Punta Arenas. We did it by car from Punta Arenas. Did Torres del Paine and Calafate too. This was Xmas/NYE 2019/20. Right before Covid. Really want to do a cruise around the tip and see the Chilean fjords.
 
Day 6 - Go With The Floe

Sailing to our morning location, this is what I see off my balcony - penguins lined up on an iceberg waiting to jump into the water for some early swimming and fishing.

Day 6 penguin lineup 2.jpg

We also get our first views of iconic Antarctica landscapes: , snow- and ice-covered hills.

Days 6 snowy hills.jpg

Day 6 icy sunrise.jpg


We are seeing more icebergs in the water. And, our first whale sightings! Look closely and you’ll see the water spouts. Those brown “rocks” are the backs of whales.

Day 6 first whales 1.jpg


Day 6 whales 2.jpg

We saw whales every day during our time in Antarctica, sometimes farther away and sometimes pretty close.

The water is so clear, we often will see the blue glacial ice underneath

Day 6 blue burg 3.jpg

Day 6 blue burg 1.jpg

It is so hard to pick out just a few pictures for these posts…


Continued in next post -
 
Day 6 Continued -

Today the first kayak group will go out. Since the expedition team takes the kayaks out empty, I wasn’t sure how the kayakers would get in them, until I saw this pic one of the AbD guides took. It looks like there is some sort of floating platform used.

Day 6 kayak platform.jpg

We saw the groups kayaking as we were in our zodiacs; it looks like a wonderful experience.

Day 6 Kayakers line.jpg

One of the kayak groups was very fortunate to see a whale up close –

Day 6 kayak whale.jpg


As for the rest of us, our morning location today is Neko Harbor in Anvord Bay. During last night’s briefing, John expected we would do two landings today. However, things can quickly change depending the conditions at the landing site, and today they changed for us. The morning landing site inspection by John and his team found that conditions were not safe for a landing as there was too much ice around.


Day 6 snow ice .jpg

So, we switch to plan B - we will have zodiac excursions instead.

Continued in the next post –
 

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