second question first: yes, USH has paper maps, just like DLR, at the turnstiles when you enter. Make sure you get both the map of the park and the times schedule (a little slip of paper). The schedule will tell you what rides are closed, when the shows run, whether you can use a front of line pass for that show or ride, how long the shows and attractions run, etc. If you forget to grab a map as you go through the turnstile, look to the side, I think it was on the right, there's a little information booth with maps and schedules, in other languages too. Note that the park map does not include City Walk, and I can't remember if there is a City Walk map anywhere (except for a few big glass display cases with maps like you find at shopping malls).
As for my favorite rides, I'll rate them and give you a brief description.
#1 Shrek 4D... I love 3D/4D attractions like Muppets and It's Tough to be a Bug, but I think Shrek is the best of the bunch (I love the movie). It has an adorable pre show, and the movie is really well done. The 4D part is quite a surprise on your first visit, so I'm not going to spoil it for you. This is totally kid friendly, but full of jokes only the grown ups will get, just like the movie. I believe the movie is the same as a straight to DVD version that came out between Shrek 1 and 2, but the 4D aspect makes it feel totally new and original.
#2 The Mummy...don't let the small size of the building fool you, this is a great little roller coaster. Like Rock'n Rollercoaster at WDW and California Screamin at DCA, this ride propells you from 0 to ?50? MPH in seconds. it doesn't go upside down or make any huge drops, but it's fast. It is a bit scary for some kids. The mummies are a bit gory and intimidating. I went with my 8 year old roller coaster buddy (a child of friends) and she kept her eyes closed the whole time, however, when we got off, she said she loved the ride. By the way, whether the park is crowded or not, the lines for this ride pick up in the late morning, (slow loader), and stay long until a couple hours before park closing, so go early. During slower periods, they'll let you ride twice in a row in the mornings. Put all your stuff in the free lockers near the exit before you enter, they won't let you take anything on the ride. And there's a test seat outside to make sure you'll fit.
#3 Jurassic Park...I like water rides, and this is a nice one. It's like Jungle Cruise, Jungle Cruise, Jungle Cruise...OMG!!!!!
You're more likely to get wet if you're in the front two rows or on the sides. If you ride it twice, try to sit on the right side of the boat one trip and the left the next. The left side has smaller, funnier dinos (a better side for kids too), and sight gags, (check out the broken down boat, look in the water, see what the tourists left behind
). This ride can be scary, the drop expecially, for kids, let them watch others come down the hill for a while before they decide. When they see everyone laughing after screaming, they'll probably want to give it a try. By the way, a few times, I've seen the poncho vender "loaning" ponchos to riders who promise to bring them back so other riders can borrow them, ask if you're interested in a poncho.
#4 Back to the Future...It's beginning to feel a bit dated, but is still fun. Generally, kids love it, especially if they can sit in the front of the car. It's a motion simulator and can be quite bumpy. Depending on how many levels they've got open, it can load fast or slow, but my experience has been that it's pretty slow, so go early.
#5 the Tram Tour....Wisteria Lane from Desperate Housewives is the big attration here, but it's tons of fun to see where they've filmed so many TV shows and movies. The guides are very good. Note that currently, the town square from Back to the Future (clock tower, etc.) looks nothing like it because of another show filming there (?Ghost Whiperer? Medium? one of those). Don't miss the tour, it's what this park was built around. Great for all ages!
As for the rest:
I love cute little animals, so check out the Animal Actor's show. Kids love it. The show is a little different everytime because they use different animals.
I'm not a fan of Terminator movies, or Arnold, but I have to admit, the Terminator 3D movie is impressive. It has live action as well as movie. Some kids may find it a bit intense, but others love it.
Waterworld is a great stunt show.
Fear Factor made me want to barf, but my guy friend who loves the show loves it. I'd say, if you're turned off by the TV show, skip the attraction.
I never got the chance to do the Backdraft or Special Effects stages (long lines build by afternoon), but my friends say that both are worth seeing. I've also never done the Van Helsing Fortress (it's a walk through haunted house that never really interested me). I Love the little Lucy museum, not much, but nice if you liked the TV show.
I'm sure I'm missing something, but if I am, I can't think of it.
I wish I was going. 
