New breaks

[Sjm9911]

Ok so i need breaks on the TT. According to the place i took it last uear for service. Granted, i haven't looked at them. But i figure they have the originals on and its a 2012 ish ( hard to say).

So , they look easy enough to do, especially if i get the whole back plate thing. So it should be remove tire and such, unbolt the back plate with the break assembly and bolt on new one and conect wires. Anything else i should think about. I will pull a tire to make sure i get the correct size once it warms up and the foot of snow melts. Just trying to get my mind right. Oh, i dont see my model number on e trailor. I tried up and down a year also. Lol. Hope that dosen't mean there OOS.

 

[4077]

Sorry to give you a hard time, but when I read this I though you meant...


In any case... good luck with replacement...

 

[Sjm9911]

Sorry to give you a hard time, but when I read this I though you meant...

View attachment 558329
In any case... good luck with replacement...

That i could fix, lol. Unfortunately, spell check , dyslexia and probably needing reading glasses but refuse to admit it contribute to everything i post. Think of it as a puzzle. Its all good as long as people can follow along. And if they can't, i probably dont need there help with the brakes

 

[Teamubr]

So , they look easy enough to do, especially if i get the whole back plate thing. So it should be remove tire and such, unbolt the back plate with the break assembly and bolt on new one and conect wires. Anything else i should think about.

Replacing the entire, pre-assembled backing plate is the easiest. That gets you new magnets, which often wear out and need to be replaced along with the shoes. You do need to reconnect the wires. There isn't a polarity, so you can't hook up the wires wrong. The biggest thing to check on an older trailer are the grounds. One of the 2 wires is just a ground wire (the other is the 12 volt feed from the brake controller). Bad grounds on the brakes is a common issue, particularly on older trailers. A basic volt/ohm meter is all you need to make sure you have a good ground and it is fairly easy to make a new grounding point.

As for your trailer not being listed. There are only a couple of brands of trailer axles and brake manufacturers. Measuring the drum is the starting point. Both the inner diameter and the width. Give eTrailer a call and they will have something for it.

j

 

[Sjm9911]

Replacing the entire, pre-assembled backing plate is the easiest. That gets you new magnets, which often wear out and need to be replaced along with the shoes. You do need to reconnect the wires. There isn't a polarity, so you can't hook up the wires wrong. The biggest thing to check on an older trailer are the grounds. One of the 2 wires is just a ground wire (the other is the 12 volt feed from the brake controller). Bad grounds on the brakes is a common issue, particularly on older trailers. A basic volt/ohm meter is all you need to make sure you have a good ground and it is fairly easy to make a new grounding point.

As for your trailer not being listed. There are only a couple of brands of trailer axles and brake manufacturers. Measuring the drum is the starting point. Both the inner diameter and the width. Give eTrailer a call and they will have something for it.

j

All new wires, so i should be good there. Had to do that last year. Yes, i will call them when the snow melts. On another note, Just changed the end of the extention cord to the TT, it somehow had a fight with the snowblower when i wasnt home. I think it moved, but someone ,probably me , must have kicked it, lol.

 

[PaHunter]

As long as you have the wheels off, pack your wheel bearings.

 

[Sjm9911]

Planning on it , i have the ez lube ones. So i will add and wipe as i turn them. I will also try to figure out if they work or not. So far half the people hate them the others love them. I had them checked and lubbed 2 years ago when i got the TT. I had 0 time before the disney trip.

 

[2goofycampers]

Great question. We are need new brakes in the spring also. Any recommendations on where to order them?

 

[Sjm9911]

Im going with e trailer, just because they are reputable and you know there brakes. I will not skimp or be the test subject to save 50 $ on this one.

 

[Sjm9911]

And for mine or simmiler as i haven't found my TT on the site would be about 125 to 150 an axel. So 300 for 4 wheels. I priced out pads and magnets it would cost like 60 bucks less but require a lot more work ( i think) then if i need new springs and such. That may cost the same or more. But i figure people here would know for sure. I sure am on uncharted territory. But i can be overthinking stuff as i usally do.

 

[Teamubr]

I figure people here would know for sure. I sure am on uncharted territory. But i can be overthinking stuff as i usally do.

A lot depends on the specific axle and brakes you have, but the price of the shoes, magnets and spring kit can often be more. I priced them out for my trailer. 7,000 lb axles, 12 X 2 in brakes. Very common on bigger trailers. The preassembled e-Trailer branded kits are $185/axle. The shoes, magnets and hardware is about $76/wheel or $152/axle. Having the preassembled, just bolt them on setup is worth $33 to me. If I went for name brand components (Dexter or Al-Ko) it would be over $200/axle.

j

 

[jbrostek]

On my 2014 I had to do brakes and backing plates. I bought mine at a local trailer/RV parts place rather then order online. I paid about the same, but I will agree the fully assembled kit is WAY WAY easier to do and worth the money.

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

Make sure that your drums are in good condition including the surface that the brake magnet contacts. No point in going to all the trouble and expense only to put worn drums back on. I am also of the opinion that the bearings need a thorough cleaning and repack, the ex lube system is false security and is not a substitute for a repack and inspection. One of the other key items missed if you dont repack is the bearing pre load, its crucial to longevity that it be set properly. Dexter has all of the info needed on their website.

 

[Sjm9911]

Ok good to know, this is all good stuff. I haven't done any brake work since high school. And i will look at the berings and maybe order a spare set. That i dont have in the camper.

 

[Teamubr]

I am also of the opinion that the bearings need a thorough cleaning and repack,

I guess I was always taught that if you pulled a hub, you repacked the bearings.

Do people put the hubs back on and not do anything with the bearings? Especially the outer? I could see thinking the inner stayed packed since the seal stayed in place.

Maybe that is why I have never had a wheel bearing failure (except on a race car).

j

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

A handful of grease and an inspection is cheap money. In the immortal words of Edna Mode "luck favors the prepared"

 

[team bradfield]

agree, hub off, repack the bearings (I have a hand packer and pneumatic grease gun, don't trust the ez lube)

 

[Sjm9911]

Ok , stuff is ordered through etrailor, prices went up a bit. I got the more expensive auto adjusting ones, probably a waste of money. Ill post more when i get to doing it.

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

Dexter has some good information all over the web. Avoid the random Youtube videos (other than official Dexter) I have seen some people advocating some seriously stupid things.

 

[Sjm9911]

Ok, so they dont fit right. They are too wide. It seems that alco went out of buisness and was bought by dexter and they do not make the size i need. So, i think i will keep the size i have , but now i need to get new drums and hubs. Lol. This is getting to be fun.