Choosing National Parks

[fivikse]

We have stayed both inside and outside various parks. You can have a great time either way. A lot of it depends on your family and your traveling style. Usually my first choice is inside, but I would still go if I stayed outside. For example, we had to change the dates of our Yellowstone trip at the last minute, and I didn't want to check every day for cancellations inside the park. We stayed outside in both West Yellowstone and Cooke City and had a wonderful time.

At Zion, I had made reservations for both inside and for right outside the park in Springdale. We ended up choosing the hotel in Springdale (because it was August and the hotel had a pool!) and canceling Zion lodge. I don't regret that decision and would stay in Springdale again.

I just say that because sometimes people can get hung up on only staying inside the parks. While I agree it can be nice, I still think you can have a wonderful trip staying outside the parks!

 

[fivikse]

Our experience in late July and early August with crowds and heat:

Yellowstone/GTNP - the crowds weren't as bad as I expected. The canyon area in yellowstone was really the only time I felt overwhelmed. But we started early and hiked away from the crowds. I think if you stay in the main areas without much hiking then you will encounter more crowds. Also key - we packed a cooler and ate picnic lunches. There were some lovely picnic areas that we basically had to ourselves (with wildlife) and we didn't have to deal with crowded cafeterias at lunch time.

Utah/Grand Canyon in August - Zion was the only park where the heat was difficult for us, but we are from Texas. Our main hike was the Narrows in Zion, which was great in the hot weather (because you get wet). But we had one other afternoon hike in Zion that was exposed and uphill (it was over 100 that day). That was a bad decision. Bryce is cooler. The Grand Canyon wasn't hot on our dates. Again it was easy to get away from crowds (usually). Grand Canyon was crowded, especially at some of the main viewpoints, but a short walk would usually give some space. Zion was crowded at the start of the Narrows, but after hiking out a bit, it thinned out. Again we got an early start. Antelope Canyon is packed (must go with a tour - reserve early!)

Our Utah trip was way too much driving and hotel changing for my kids. But, I'm not really sure I would have stayed longer in some of the spots. I wouldn't let the heat and crowds scare you off. It's like any other trip to a popular spot - go early and have a plan (and maybe hike a little farther than the crowds if your family enjoys that) and you'll be fine.

 

[RamblingMad]

Our experience in late July and early August with crowds and heat:

Yellowstone/GTNP - the crowds weren't as bad as I expected. The canyon area in yellowstone was really the only time I felt overwhelmed. But we started early and hiked away from the crowds. I think if you stay in the main areas without much hiking then you will encounter more crowds. Also key - we packed a cooler and ate picnic lunches. There were some lovely picnic areas that we basically had to ourselves (with wildlife) and we didn't have to deal with crowded cafeterias at lunch time.

Utah/Grand Canyon in August - Zion was the only park where the heat was difficult for us, but we are from Texas. Our main hike was the Narrows in Zion, which was great in the hot weather (because you get wet). But we had one other afternoon hike in Zion that was exposed and uphill (it was over 100 that day). That was a bad decision. Bryce is cooler. The Grand Canyon wasn't hot on our dates. Again it was easy to get away from crowds (usually). Grand Canyon was crowded, especially at some of the main viewpoints, but a short walk would usually give some space. Zion was crowded at the start of the Narrows, but after hiking out a bit, it thinned out. Again we got an early start. Antelope Canyon is packed (must go with a tour - reserve early!)

Our Utah trip was way too much driving and hotel changing for my kids. But, I'm not really sure I would have stayed longer in some of the spots. I wouldn't let the heat and crowds scare you off. It's like any other trip to a popular spot - go early and have a plan (and maybe hike a little farther than the crowds if your family enjoys that) and you'll be fine.

Did you hike angels landing?

 

[fivikse]

No - my fear of heights was too much for Angel's Landing! I'm not sure if my kids would have done it, but I didn't give them the option. It was just the Canyon Overlook Trail that was hot. It's a short fun hike, but it has some uphill parts with not much shade and it was our hottest day. We went in the afternoon - just poor planning - it would have been fine in the morning.

 

[bcla]

No - my fear of heights was too much for Angel's Landing! I'm not sure if my kids would have done it, but I didn't give them the option. It was just the Canyon Overlook Trail that was hot. It's a short fun hike, but it has some uphill parts with not much shade and it was our hottest day. We went in the afternoon - just poor planning - it would have been fine in the morning.

I went up Angels Landing. It's not so scary when you don't look down. It's actually quite easy, but it's not for everyone. No technical climbing skills are needed. There's excellent foot grip on sandstone, and the chains are easy to grab. Sandstone grip stays the same after it wears. It's still really good grip compared to granite that's been worn away. That's the basic problem with the Half Dome cables. The granite in between the cables has been worn to the point where it's smooth and somewhat slippery. But going up Angels Landing felt like I was walking on those sandpaper anti-slip strips that you might find on stairs.

 

[bcla]

Utah/Grand Canyon in August - Zion was the only park where the heat was difficult for us, but we are from Texas. Our main hike was the Narrows in Zion, which was great in the hot weather (because you get wet). But we had one other afternoon hike in Zion that was exposed and uphill (it was over 100 that day). That was a bad decision. Bryce is cooler. The Grand Canyon wasn't hot on our dates. Again it was easy to get away from crowds (usually). Grand Canyon was crowded, especially at some of the main viewpoints, but a short walk would usually give some space. Zion was crowded at the start of the Narrows, but after hiking out a bit, it thinned out. Again we got an early start. Antelope Canyon is packed (must go with a tour - reserve early!)

At both Zion and Grand Canyon, it's highly recommended that strenuous hikes be done in the morning. I remember a park ranger telling our group on a guided hike that they recommend being off the trail by noon. We saw a ranger hiking up who had worked at Phantom Ranch. I think he left early in the morning at about 6 AM when it was still dark.

All my tough hikes in those places were first thing in the morning.

 

[aggiedog]

We did the Yellowstone Picnic hike. It's an easy, mostly flat (once you get up a short, steep beginning) that was completely empty along a ridgeline and overlooking meadows. We also kayaked on Lake Yellowstone. It was like having YS to ourselves. YS was super crowded at Old Faithful, Prismatic, and the canyon. I definitely recommend planning some time away from the crowds. I'm pretty sure 99% of people hit the main attractions and nowhere else. We also stayed in Silvergate the first 2 nights, which is way less crowded and the drive in thru Lamar Valley is stunning AND an animal bonanza usually.

 

[bcla]

We did the Yellowstone Picnic hike. It's an easy, mostly flat (once you get up a short, steep beginning) that was completely empty along a ridgeline and overlooking meadows. We also kayaked on Lake Yellowstone. It was like having YS to ourselves. YS was super crowded at Old Faithful, Prismatic, and the canyon. I definitely recommend planning some time away from the crowds. I'm pretty sure 99% of people hit the main attractions and nowhere else. We also stayed in Silvergate the first 2 nights, which is way less crowded and the drive in thru Lamar Valley is stunning AND an animal bonanza usually.

Depends. We spent a bit of time in the Old Faithful area. Even on all of the boardwalks, if we just walked a little bit aways, the crowds just started dwindling. It wasn't barren. There would generally be geyser watchers in chairs just waiting for assorted geysers to erupt, but it generally didn't feel like a zoo as in the circle right around Old Faithful itself.

 

[RamblingMad]

I went up Angels Landing. It's not so scary when you don't look down. It's actually quite easy, but it's not for everyone. No technical climbing skills are needed. There's excellent foot grip on sandstone, and the chains are easy to grab. Sandstone grip stays the same after it wears. It's still really good grip compared to granite that's been worn away. That's the basic problem with the Half Dome cables. The granite in between the cables has been worn to the point where it's smooth and somewhat slippery. But going up Angels Landing felt like I was walking on those sandpaper anti-slip strips that you might find on stairs.

Observation point is another good hike. You end up looking down at angels landing.

 

[RamblingMad]

At both Zion and Grand Canyon, it's highly recommended that strenuous hikes be done in the morning. I remember a park ranger telling our group on a guided hike that they recommend being off the trail by noon. We saw a ranger hiking up who had worked at Phantom Ranch. I think he left early in the morning at about 6 AM when it was still dark.

All my tough hikes in those places were first thing in the morning.

Same. Desert hiking is best done first thing in the morning. Best to be done by lunch time.

 

[RamblingMad]

We did the Yellowstone Picnic hike. It's an easy, mostly flat (once you get up a short, steep beginning) that was completely empty along a ridgeline and overlooking meadows. We also kayaked on Lake Yellowstone. It was like having YS to ourselves. YS was super crowded at Old Faithful, Prismatic, and the canyon. I definitely recommend planning some time away from the crowds. I'm pretty sure 99% of people hit the main attractions and nowhere else. We also stayed in Silvergate the first 2 nights, which is way less crowded and the drive in thru Lamar Valley is stunning AND an animal bonanza usually.

Yep. Hit the hard hikes and the crowds go away.

 

[bcla]

Same. Desert hiking is best done first thing in the morning. Best to be fine by lunch time.

Depends on what you're doing though. At the Grand Canyon, the canyon itself traps heat and there's an inherent temperature difference where it gets hotter the further down one is. It's really hot at the Colorado River level. So anything done inside the canyon itself should be done by maybe noon.

But I was able to handle a walk from viewpoint to viewpoint on the South Rim. The other thing is that it's right next to the road and all the bus stops. It was warm but not too bad. If I got tired I could just get on a bus. And worst case if collapsing there would likely be someone who noticed.

 

[bcla]

Yep. Hit the hard hikes and the crowds go away.

It might have been an oversimplification, but one park ranger said the most common trip at Yellowstone was someone taking a tour bus or a drive from West Yellowstone to Old Faithful where they just wait for it to erupt and leave immediately.

 

[JimMIA]

It might have been an oversimplification, but one park ranger said the most common trip at Yellowstone was someone taking a tour bus or a drive from West Yellowstone to Old Faithful where they just wait for it to erupt and leave immediately.

I suspect the ranger was spot on! That's true of many parks unfortunately.

I can't tell you how many people drive for an hour to get to Everglades, pay their entry fee, drive another half hour to a trail where they can see an alligator -- and then get back in their car and leave.

But I guess everybody gets some value from a visit. Visiting any national park is like peeling an onion -- the deeper you dig, the more you get.

 

[RamblingMad]

Depends on what you're doing though. At the Grand Canyon, the canyon itself traps heat and there's an inherent temperature difference where it gets hotter the further down one is. It's really hot at the Colorado River level. So anything done inside the canyon itself should be done by maybe noon.

But I was able to handle a walk from viewpoint to viewpoint on the South Rim. The other thing is that it's right next to the road and all the bus stops. It was warm but not too bad. If I got tired I could just get on a bus. And worst case if collapsing there would likely be someone who noticed.

I always hike down. Only in shoulder season. I won’t go near that park in the summer.

 

[Deb & Bill]

When we lived in Miles City, MT, we used to go to Yellowstone quite often. We had friends from work in Miles City that went for July 4th one year. They drove over the Beartooths and got stuck in a blizzard for a few hours. We went for Memorial Day weekend once and Lake Yellowstone was still frozen. I hated driving the Beartooths and made my husband do it. But he made me drive the Going to the Sun road at Glacier, twice. The second time we drove from the east to the west so we could stay on the inside of the road instead of the outer edge.

 

[RamblingMad]

When we lived in Miles City, MT, we used to go to Yellowstone quite often. We had friends from work in Miles City that went for July 4th one year. They drove over the Beartooths and got stuck in a blizzard for a few hours. We went for Memorial Day weekend once and Lake Yellowstone was still frozen. I hated driving the Beartooths and made my husband do it. But he made me drive the Going to the Sun road at Glacier, twice. The second time we drove from the east to the west so we could stay on the inside of the road instead of the outer edge.

Going to the Sun road isn't bad. I found the Road to Hana far more stressful.

If you want the same views as the Going to the Sun road, hike the highline trail.