Choosing National Parks

[5lilfish]

Keeping in mind that we have to go over the summer (hot)....

We are trying to decide whether to spend 6 days between Yellowstone and Jackson Hole/Grand Teton OR spending that time in Moab Utah (Canyonland and Arches). Either way, we would also go to Bryce National Park.

It would be me, my husband and out 14 yr old twins. We are not huge hikers. I mean, we will do some easy trails but we aren't heading off on a 10 mile climbing/strenuous hike. We would be more interested in driving loops and shorter hikes. My kids will also want something to do other than just hiking and scenery. I know we can raft with both options (either in Grand Teton or Moab). Wildlife helps too...which I know we'd see at Yellowstone.

Truthfully, I just don't know how to decide. I'd love to see it all, but I have to make some choices.

Thanks...
Jess

 

[McKelly]

If you choose Utah, please try to fit in Zion National Park. I think it's about two hours from Bryce Canyon. Definitely do "The Narrows" hike. The hike is only accessible in the summer months when the water is low enough to deem it safe. GORGEOUS. One, if not the most, memorable hikes my family has taken. Make sure you walk several miles up the river to escape the crowds. Check it out!

 

[rlk]

We did the Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, and Jackson Hole trip this past July with our two sons, ages 18 & 19. We all loved it and are planning a trip to Utah next. While we love hiking, nature, and wildlife, I knew my boys would want more activities. We booked a Snake river whitewater rafting trip, horseback riding, biking, and some rock climbing. Originally, we had an all-day rock climbing trip booked, but decided it was too intense for this old lady. Instead, I booked with via ferrata at Jackson Hole. It allowed us to rock climb without the hassle or whole day commitment.

 

[JimMIA]

I have not visited either Canyonlands or Arches, but I'll try to give you some input on the others.

Yellowstone/Teton
For wildlife, the Yellowstone/Teton area clearly is better -- no contest. Bison (thousands of bison!), deer, elk, moose, black bears, grizzly bears, wolves, coyotes, marmots, bighorn sheep, pronghorn antelope, etc, etc, etc.

For natural beauty, I think only Yosemite is prettier than Grand Teton, and some would disagree. Teton sits in an alluvial plain (carved by glaciers), so instead of foothills, you get spectacular mountains rising directly out of beautiful lakes. Really, really pretty landscapes.

Yellowstone, of course, also has all the thermal features in addition to the vast plains teeming with wildlife. It also has a spectacular waterfall in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and a serene, massive Lake Yellowstone. Yellowstone is a very large park geographically, with very different regions, and requires some time to explore.

In addition to Yellowstone and Grand Teton, there is also the town of Jackson, WY, which is worthy of some time as well. And just outside Jackson is the National Elk Refuge.

Six days is not going to give you much time for those areas. Last time DW and I were there, we spent 11 days for Yellowstone/Grand Teton/Jackson -- flying into and out of Jackson.

Bryce Canyon
Yellowstone is in NW Wyoming (and a bit in Montana) and Bryce is in southern Utah -- so it's a drive. The drive can be 9-11 hours from Grand Teton, depending on route and road conditions. Bryce is beautiful, but I personally would not combine a Bryce visit with Yellowstone/Teton.

Bryce combines much better with Zion, the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Lower Antelope Canyon (do NOT miss), and possibly Monument Valley/ Canyonlands/Arches.

Canyonlands/Arches actually would combine better with Mesa Verde NP, Four Corners, and possibly Monument Valley.

Flying or driving?
If you are flying in, combining Bryce with Yellowstone/Grand Teton would be an issue. Where are you flying out of?

For the southern Utah, extreme northern AZ, and Four Corners area, you also are going to have to do some serious driving after your flight in. You would fly to Las Vegas, Phoenix, or maybe Albuquerque or Denver. No matter where you fly to -- long drive to get to the good stuff.

Websites:
Just FYI, National Parks websites follow this protocol for web addresses: nps.gov/ and then the first 4 letters of a one-word park name (/yell, /cany) or the first two letters of the first two words of a multi-word park name (/grte, /grca, /seki for Sequoia/Kings Canyon in CA). So...

• Yellowstone: www.nps.gov/yell
• Grand Teton: www.nps.gov/grte
• Bryce Canyon: www.nps.gov/brca
• Zion: www.nps.gov/zion
• Grand Canyon: www.nps.gov/grca
• Arches: www.nps.gov/arch
• Canyonlands: www.nps.gov/cany
• Mesa Verda: www.nps.gov/meve

Lower Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley are Navajo Nation Parks, not NPS sites. Both are spectacular.

 

[Frwinkley]

I am following this thread closely! We are planning a Utah trip next summer, and are also concerned about the heat. I'm actually considering flying into Vegas (from Pittsburgh so we'd have the time change on our side) and than flying out of Salt Lake City so that we could go to Park City for a few days and enjoy cooler weather.

We are actually considering Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Jackson, etc. as a separate trip.

 

[JimMIA]

I am following this thread closely! We are planning a Utah trip next summer, and are also concerned about the heat. I'm actually considering flying into Vegas (from Pittsburgh so we'd have the time change on our side) and than flying out of Salt Lake City so that we could go to Park City for a few days and enjoy cooler weather.

We are actually considering Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Jackson, etc. as a separate trip.

Vegas will be hot of course.

But keep in mind that many of these places -- especially the Jackson/Grand Teton/Yellowstone area -- are at some altitude.

Jackson and Grand Teton are at 6200+ feet, and the lowest elevation in Yellowstone is 5200+ feet. Much of Yellowstone is higher than 7500 feet, which is higher than the base at Park City.

 

[5lilfish]

I have not visited either Canyonlands or Arches, but I'll try to give you some input on the others.

Yellowstone/Teton
For wildlife, the Yellowstone/Teton area clearly is better -- no contest. Bison (thousands of bison!), deer, elk, moose, black bears, grizzly bears, wolves, coyotes, marmots, bighorn sheep, pronghorn antelope, etc, etc, etc.

For natural beauty, I think only Yosemite is prettier than Grand Teton, and some would disagree. Teton sits in an alluvial plain (carved by glaciers), so instead of foothills, you get spectacular mountains rising directly out of beautiful lakes. Really, really pretty landscapes.

Yellowstone, of course, also has all the thermal features in addition to the vast plains teeming with wildlife. It also has a spectacular waterfall in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and a serene, massive Lake Yellowstone. Yellowstone is a very large park geographically, with very different regions, and requires some time to explore.

In addition to Yellowstone and Grand Teton, there is also the town of Jackson, WY, which is worthy of some time as well. And just outside Jackson is the National Elk Refuge.

Six days is not going to give you much time for those areas. Last time DW and I were there, we spent 11 days for Yellowstone/Grand Teton/Jackson -- flying into and out of Jackson.

Bryce Canyon
Yellowstone is in NW Wyoming (and a bit in Montana) and Bryce is in southern Utah -- so it's a drive. The drive can be 9-11 hours from Grand Teton, depending on route and road conditions. Bryce is beautiful, but I personally would not combine a Bryce visit with Yellowstone/Teton.

Bryce combines much better with Zion, the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Lower Antelope Canyon (do NOT miss), and possibly Monument Valley/ Canyonlands/Arches.

Canyonlands/Arches actually would combine better with Mesa Verde NP, Four Corners, and possibly Monument Valley.

Flying or driving?
If you are flying in, combining Bryce with Yellowstone/Grand Teton would be an issue. Where are you flying out of?

For the southern Utah, extreme northern AZ, and Four Corners area, you also are going to have to do some serious driving after your flight in. You would fly to Las Vegas, Phoenix, or maybe Albuquerque or Denver. No matter where you fly to -- long drive to get to the good stuff.

Websites:
Just FYI, National Parks websites follow this protocol for web addresses: nps.gov/ and then the first 4 letters of a one-word park name (/yell, /cany) or the first two letters of the first two words of a multi-word park name (/grte, /grca, /seki for Sequoia/Kings Canyon in CA). So...

• Yellowstone: www.nps.gov/yell
• Grand Teton: www.nps.gov/grte
• Bryce Canyon: www.nps.gov/brca
• Zion: www.nps.gov/zion
• Grand Canyon: www.nps.gov/grca
• Arches: www.nps.gov/arch
• Canyonlands: www.nps.gov/cany
• Mesa Verda: www.nps.gov/meve

Lower Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley are Navajo Nation Parks, not NPS sites. Both are spectacular.

Thank you.

We are driving. The 9 hour distance between is fine.

We have been to Yellowstone before. We are just thinking of including it because our 14 yr olds were only 4 when we were there.

We are going to see a lot of wildlife in Custer State Park too.

I forgot about Antelope Canyon. Time table, if we went with Moab over Yellowstone, we could add Antelope but it would have to be between that and Zion.

This could very well be the last time I get a chance to do much of this area....simply because of wanting to do other things and the distance from home that these parks are. We already drove cross-country once. I am super excited about doing it again but I can't see us doing it a 3rd time. That is what is making this so difficult.....I want to see it all, but I need to figure out what is Can't miss.

We did Grand Canyon when the twins were 4 too. Amazing!

Thanks again...

Jess

 

[gotomu212]

Summer in Moab is HOT. If you can go earlier in June or even late May it’s a lot better than July and August. We do stuff early morning and evening.
Yellowstone and Grand Teton are so BUSY in summer now. Everyone has different expectations but 2 summers ago we thought Yellowstone was pretty miserable with thousands of cars in a line creeping along. Waits were long to eat and at viewing areas.

Both areas are beautiful, it just helps to have expectations in scale.

 

[mom2rtk]

If you haven't been to southern Utah, then you need to go. It's an amazing and memorable journey. Even if you mostly drive through and get out at the scenic spots, it's worth doing. Some of the most amazing landscape on planet Earth.

If you can squeeze in a stop in Page, AZ, be sure to see Horseshoe Bend. And when you're at Canyonlands stop at nearby Deadhorse Point.

 

[MrsPete]

I've visited all the parks you mention -- except Bryce.

Given the choice, I'd choose Yellowstone /Grand Tetons. I could do without Jackson Hole. Things I'd choose:

- Rafting on the Snake River.
- The best hike in the two parks is the Jenny Lake Trail. Take the boat across the lake. It's a moderately strenuous hike with wonderful waterfalls and an incredible view at the top. You can do it in half a day.
- The Paint Pots in Yellowstone are interesting.
- The Wolf and Grizzly Center in West Yellowstone.
- Chuck wagon dinner /horseback ride in Yellowstone.
- Rodeo in Cody, Wyoming, which is a day trip to the East.
- The ranger programs at the two parks are wonderful -- some are animal-based, others are about geology -- all are very worthwhile.

 

[JimMIA]

We are going to see a lot of wildlife in Custer State Park too.

Yes, lots of bison, pronghorn, etc. Not the variety of Yellowstone, but you will see bison. And you'll see Mt. Rushmore, of course.

I forgot about Antelope Canyon. Time table, if we went with Moab over Yellowstone, we could add Antelope but it would have to be between that and Zion.

I love Zion, and the Narrows hike mentioned above is a unique experience.

But this is LOWER Antelope Canyon:



I took a one-hour tour, and took 85 cellphone pics. That pic was actually almost randomly selected for you. Zion is great. LOWER Antelope Canyon is breathtaking.

UPPER Antelope Canyon is an okay boat ride. LOWER Antelope Canyon is where you want to go -- just east of Page, AZ.

 

[JimMIA]

- The best hike in the two parks is the Jenny Lake Trail. Take the boat across the lake. It's a moderately strenuous hike with wonderful waterfalls and an incredible view at the top. You can do it in half a day.

Agree. Many also like the Mt. Washington hike in Yellowstone, but we just loved Jenny Lake Trail.

 

[Frwinkley]

I was thinking of just flying into Vegas and getting in the car and driving into Utah. We're used to long days on vacation, so driving 4-5 hours in the first day is no big deal to us.

I've also read that that Yellowstone/Grand Teton area is terribly busy in the summer. As a teacher with just a few more years until retirement, I might save them trip for early fall.

I like the idea of driving through and stopping at scenic spots, especially if the weather is terribly hot. We are not big hikers, but are avid photographers.

 

[5lilfish]

I was thinking of just flying into Vegas and getting in the car and driving into Utah. We're used to long days on vacation, so driving 4-5 hours in the first day is no big deal to us.

I've also read that that Yellowstone/Grand Teton area is terribly busy in the summer. As a teacher with just a few more years until retirement, I might save them trip for early fall.

I like the idea of driving through and stopping at scenic spots, especially if the weather is terribly hot. We are not big hikers, but are avid photographers.

We don't have a choice about when to go. With kids in school, we have to go over the summer. We went out West during the summer 10 years ago. It was hot...like Holy Hell, Hot...but we did fine.

 

[MrsPete]

Yes, lots of bison, pronghorn, etc. Not the variety of Yellowstone, but you will see bison. And you'll see Mt. Rushmore, of course.I love Zion, and the Narrows hike mentioned above is a unique experience.

But this is LOWER Antelope Canyon:

View attachment 533439

I took a one-hour tour, and took 85 cellphone pics. That pic was actually almost randomly selected for you. Zion is great. LOWER Antelope Canyon is breathtaking.

UPPER Antelope Canyon is an okay boat ride. LOWER Antelope Canyon is where you want to go -- just east of Page, AZ.

We LOVED Custer State Park. Definitely take the Buffalo Safari. More than a decade later, we still talk about it. I know you said summer, but I want to go back sometime in September to see them "round up" the Buffalo and put them into the September pasture.

I forgot about Antelope Canyon too. LOVED that place -- so other-world-y -- but it is a half-day trip and not super close to other things.

 

[monsterkitty]

I would fly into Denver and start a road trip.

Great Sand Dunes
Mesa Verde
Moab
Zion a

Fly out of Vegas

 

[JimMIA]

I was thinking of just flying into Vegas and getting in the car and driving into Utah. We're used to long days on vacation, so driving 4-5 hours in the first day is no big deal to us.

I've also read that that Yellowstone/Grand Teton area is terribly busy in the summer. As a teacher with just a few more years until retirement, I might save them trip for early fall.

They are, especially Yellowstone. Staying INSIDE the parks is key.

I like the idea of driving through and stopping at scenic spots, especially if the weather is terribly hot. We are not big hikers, but are avid photographers.

The drive between Vegas and Zion (St. George, UT) is very pretty.

A great "across the top of AZ" trip would be

• LV to Zion
• Zion up to Bryce
• south to the North Rim of Grand Canyon -- lots of wildlife, Grand Canyon without the crowds...but a drive.
• North Rim to Page, AZ for LOWER Antelope Canyon.
• further east to Monument Valley (stay at The View hotel, right on the rim of the valley)
• Then, you have a choice
  • south to Chinle, AZ and Canyon de Chelly National Monument (cliff dwellings), then to Albuquerque
  • or east to Four Corners (nothing special other than standing in four states at the same time), and continuing on east to Mesa Verde National Park.
• then south to fly home from Albuquerque

 

[luvsvacation]

We did a road trip out west last year that included all of these places. We had 18 days though...

Given that you are doing Bryce for sure I would focus completely on Utah and skip Yellowstone. My kids were 16&17 and had a blast in Moab. We did a sunset Jeep ride over all the sandstone formations and did a full day canyoneering trip with Moab cliffs and Canyons. It was awesome! They had several trips available, canyoneering and rock climbing. We hiked to delicate arch at sunset which was beautiful.

Zion is an amazing park! One of my favorites, I prefer it even to Yosemite. Hiking the narrows is lots of fun especially for teens who will probably enjoy taking a swim in one of the deep spots. I’d throw in a drive by monument valley and page AZ also to see horseshoe bend and Antelope Canyon (if the tours are operating again).

At Bryce I would suggest a horseback ride. We did a half day ride and it was absolutely beautiful!

How long do you have for the entire trip? You could start in Moab and then go to Monument Valley, then Page, possibly swing by the Grand Canyon since it’s only a few hours away, back up to Zion and then Bryce. We did this and then added Yellowstone/Grand Tetons as well. We were exhausted by the end! We also hiked down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon which was an amazing experience for me, but a year later and my kids still haven’t forgiven me for it

 

[RamblingMad]

If you want to go in the summer, I like Yosemite and the neighboring parks, which are less crowded during the week. The parks by Canada are nice too: Tetons and Glacier. If our border opens up, I'd go to Banff again. It's really pretty. I'd avoid the heavily tourist areas though.

 

[low-key]

I dont really know how staying at national parks work, but if this is an option I wpuld pick one that has a 5 star hotel